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How to Grow Daylilies

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The short answer: to grow daylilies, plant them in full sun (six-plus hours) in average, well-drained soil, setting the crown about one inch below the surface, water regularly while they establish, then enjoy one of the most drought-tolerant, trouble-free perennials there is. Daylilies grow in USDA zones 3 through 9, bloom in early to midsummer (some rebloom into fall), and should be divided every three to five years to keep them vigorous. They tolerate poor soil, heat, and neglect, which is why they are called the perfect perennial.

Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are not true lilies, and each flower lasts just one day, but an established clump throws bud after bud for weeks. Growers consistently report them thriving in conditions that defeat fussier plants, from hot parking-lot borders to dry slopes. We do not test plants or products first-hand; our guidance reflects aggregated grower reviews and horticultural consensus, described in how we rank.

Why daylilies are the perfect perennial

Daylilies earn their reputation for toughness through a rare combination of traits. They are cold-hardy to zone 3 and heat-tolerant through zone 9, shrug off drought once established, resist most pests and diseases, and adapt to a wide range of soils. They multiply steadily into dependable clumps and return reliably every year with almost no intervention.

This resilience makes them ideal for beginners, for difficult sites like dry banks and hot borders, and for low-maintenance mass plantings. If you have struggled to keep other perennials alive, daylilies are the plant most likely to succeed with the least effort.

Choosing daylily varieties

There are thousands of daylily cultivars in nearly every color but true blue. The main choices that affect your display are bloom season and rebloom habit.

TypeBloom habitExample / note
RebloomingFlowers repeatedly through the seasonStella de Oro, Happy Returns
Early seasonBlooms in early summerStarts the display
MidseasonPeak summer bloomThe main show
Late seasonBlooms into late summerExtends color
Dormant vs evergreenFoliage dies back or stays greenDormant types suit cold zones; evergreen suit the South

For color all season, combine early, mid, and late varieties with a rebloomer or two. In cold zones choose dormant types, which overwinter more reliably than evergreen cultivars bred for warm climates.

Site and Soil for Daylilies

Daylilies are forgiving but reward good siting with more bloom. Give them full sun, at least six hours, for the fullest flowering; they tolerate partial shade better than most perennials, and in the hot South a little afternoon shade helps dark-colored flowers hold their color. Too much shade, however, yields plenty of foliage but few flowers.

They grow in almost any soil but do best in fertile, well-drained ground with a neutral pH. Improve poor or heavy soil with compost, though daylilies famously cope with clay and lean soil where other plants fail. Avoid spots that stay waterlogged, which can rot the crown.

How to plant daylilies

  1. Dig a hole wide enough to spread the roots and deep enough that the crown (where roots meet foliage) sits about one inch below the soil surface.
  2. Build a small mound in the hole, set the plant on top, and spread the roots down and outward over it.
  3. Position the crown one inch deep; planting too deep is a common cause of poor bloom, so do not bury it further.
  4. Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart to allow clumps to expand.
  5. Backfill, firm gently, and water in well to settle the soil.

The best planting times are spring and early fall, though container-grown daylilies can be planted any time during the growing season with adequate water.

Watering and Feeding Daylilies

While establishing in the first season, daylilies need regular watering to develop their fleshy, water-storing roots. Provide about an inch of water a week, keeping the soil evenly moist. Once established, they are notably drought-tolerant, though consistent moisture during bloom produces the biggest, most numerous flowers.

Daylilies are light feeders and often thrive with no fertilizer at all in decent soil. For maximum bloom, apply a balanced fertilizer or compost in spring as growth begins, and rebloomers appreciate a second light feeding after their first flush. Avoid excess nitrogen, which pushes foliage over flowers. For help reading a fertilizer label, see our guide to choosing the best fertilizer for hydrangeas.

Deadheading and season-long grooming

Because each flower lasts only a day, a little grooming keeps a daylily clump looking fresh. Deadheading is optional for bloom but improves appearance.

Deadheading also prevents self-seeding, which matters because seedlings will not match the parent variety and can crowd a bed over time.

Dividing daylilies to keep them vigorous

Every three to five years, clumps become crowded and bloom declines, signaling it is time to divide. Dividing rejuvenates the plant and gives you free new plants.

  1. Divide in early spring or late summer to early fall, after flowering.
  2. Dig up the entire clump with a fork, lifting the whole root mass.
  3. Wash or shake off soil so you can see the natural divisions between fans of leaves.
  4. Separate into sections, each with several fans and a good chunk of roots, pulling apart by hand or cutting with a sharp knife.
  5. Replant promptly at the correct depth (crown one inch deep), water well, and the divisions re-establish quickly.

Daylilies are so tough that even roughly divided sections almost always survive, making them one of the most beginner-friendly perennials to propagate. For more easy, reliable perennials and bulbs, see our guides to how to grow dahlias and how to grow tulips, or browse the full flowers and ornamentals hub.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

Are daylilies easy to grow?

Daylilies are among the easiest perennials you can grow, which is why they are nicknamed the perfect perennial. They tolerate a wide range of soils, drought once established, heat, humidity, and even some neglect, and they are largely pest- and disease-free. They grow in USDA zones 3 through 9, spread into reliable clumps, and bloom year after year with minimal care. For a beginner wanting dependable color with little fuss, daylilies are one of the safest choices in the entire perennial garden.

How much sun do daylilies need?

Daylilies bloom best in full sun, at least six hours a day, though they tolerate partial shade better than many flowering perennials. In hot southern climates, a little afternoon shade can actually help, and dark-colored varieties hold their color better with some shade. In too much shade, however, daylilies produce lush foliage but few flowers. If your daylilies grow well but barely bloom, insufficient sun is the most likely reason; aim to give them the sunniest spot available for the fullest display.

Do daylilies bloom all summer?

Individual daylily flowers last only a single day, but a healthy clump produces a steady succession of buds over a bloom period of several weeks. Whether you get color all summer depends on the varieties you plant. Reblooming types such as Stella de Oro flower repeatedly through the season, and by combining early, mid, and late-season varieties plus rebloomers, you can have daylilies in flower from early summer into fall. A single once-blooming variety, by contrast, gives one spectacular multi-week show and then stops.

When and how do you divide daylilies?

Divide daylilies every three to five years when clumps become crowded and bloom declines, ideally in early spring as growth starts or in late summer to early fall after flowering. Dig up the entire clump, shake or wash off soil, and separate it into sections, each with several fans of leaves and a healthy chunk of roots, by pulling apart or cutting with a sharp knife. Replant divisions promptly at the same depth, water well, and they will re-establish quickly, giving you free new plants.

Should you cut back daylilies after they bloom?

Remove spent flowers and the bare flower stalks (called scapes) after blooming finishes; snap or cut each scape off at the base once all its buds have opened and faded, which tidies the plant and prevents seed formation. Keep the strappy foliage through the season, as it feeds the roots, but trim away any yellowed or dead leaves. In late fall or early spring, cut the whole plant back to a few inches to clear old growth. Deadheading daily also keeps the clump looking fresh during bloom.