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How to Hang Curtains

Home/Resources/Furniture & Decor/Hanging Curtains
DH
Written & researched by Derek Holt Home & Appliances Editor
Updated August 2026
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Hanging curtains is an easy DIY job that takes 30 to 60 minutes per window with a drill, a level and a tape measure, for the cost of a $15 to $40 rod plus panels. There is no permit or pro involved and the load is light, so the skill is not in the drilling, it is in the measuring: mounting the rod high and wide and getting the length right is the difference between a room that looks tall and finished and one that looks like the curtains were an afterthought.

How to Hang Curtains — for Beginners

Step-by-step: hanging curtains that look designed

  1. Decide the rod height. Mark 4 to 6 inches above the window trim, or higher toward the ceiling if you want to maximize perceived height. Use a level to set a horizontal reference line.
  2. Set the width. Extend the rod 8 to 12 inches past each side of the frame. Mark where the end brackets will land at that width.
  3. Level the bracket marks. Confirm both bracket marks sit on the same horizontal line. A rod that is even slightly off level is glaringly obvious once panels hang.
  4. Check for studs and choose anchors. Where a bracket lands on a stud, screw into it. Elsewhere, install self-drilling drywall anchors rated for the load.
  5. Mount the end brackets. Drill, set anchors, and screw the brackets firmly. Place them about 3 to 4 inches in from the rod ends.
  6. Add a center support. For any rod over 48 inches, mount a center bracket to prevent sag. Two supports past 90 inches.
  7. Hang and measure the panels. Slide panels on, hang the rod, and confirm the hem just kisses the floor. Hem or swap lengths if needed.
  8. Train the folds. Steam or hand-fold the pleats and tie them for a day so the fabric hangs in even columns.
Low-angle view of a person arranging cushions on a sofa in a styled living room, in warm evening lamplight

Tools and materials

You need a drill/driver, level, tape measure, pencil, and drywall anchors sized to the rod. Curtains are usually the finishing layer on a room you are also furnishing, so it helps to plan them alongside the pieces that anchor the space, such as a reading nook built around one of our accent chair picks by the window, or a workspace where floor-length panels soften a setup from our standing desk roundup. Getting rod height right first means the whole wall reads as intentional.

Wide view of a person arranging cushions on a sofa in a styled living room, in warm evening lamplight

Mistakes that cheapen the look

Close-up detail of the material being worked in a furniture & decor project, in warm late-afternoon light

Notes and safety

This is fully DIY and low-risk. The only cautions are avoiding hidden wiring or pipes when drilling near a window jamb, and using corded-cleat or cordless options if there are young children in the home, since looped curtain and blind cords are a recognized CPSC strangulation hazard. Heavy drapery on a long span needs proper anchors and a center support so nothing pulls loose. No codes govern curtains, but the child-safety guidance on cords is worth following.

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More from this hub: Furniture & Decor · Install a curtain rod · Hang a gallery wall · Hang a heavy mirror · Best accent chairs · How we rank

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

How high should you hang curtains?

Hang the rod high and wide to make the window and the room look bigger. The designer rule is to mount the rod 4 to 6 inches above the window trim, and if the ceiling is close, go all the way up to 1 to 2 inches below the crown or ceiling. Curtains that start at the trim and stop at the sill make a window look squat. Raising the rod draws the eye up and adds perceived height, which is why nearly every staged room mounts curtains far above the actual window.

How wide should a curtain rod be?

Extend the rod 8 to 12 inches past each side of the window frame, so the panels stack off the glass when open and let in full light. On a wide window you can go even further. This width does two things: it makes the window look larger and it stops the curtains from blocking daylight when drawn back. A rod cut flush to the frame forces the fabric to cover part of the glass permanently, which darkens the room and makes the window look smaller than it is.

How long should curtains be?

For a polished look, curtains should just kiss the floor or break slightly on it. Measure from where you will mount the rod down to the floor and buy or hem to that length. Panels that float several inches above the floor look like high-water pants and cheapen the room, while a heavy puddle gathers dust. Standard ready-made lengths are 84, 96 and 108 inches, so mount height often dictates which length you need, another reason to plan the rod height before buying panels.

Do you need studs to hang curtains?

Not usually. Curtain brackets are light and the load is modest, so wall anchors handle most installations, but the bracket screws must hit something solid. Where the bracket lands over a stud, screw straight into it. Where it does not, use a self-drilling drywall anchor rated for the weight of the rod plus fabric, which is easily enough for standard curtains. Heavy blackout or velvet panels on a long span put real weight on the end brackets, so use a center support bracket and stronger anchors there.

How far apart should curtain brackets be?

Place end brackets about 3 to 4 inches in from the ends of the rod so the finials have room and the panels hang cleanly. On any rod longer than about 48 inches, add a center support bracket to stop the rod from bowing under the weight of the fabric, and for spans past 90 inches use two center supports. Skipping the center bracket on a wide window is the most common cause of a rod that sags in the middle or pulls its end brackets loose over time.