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Brown spots on pothos leaves are most often caused by overwatering and root rot, which produce soft, dark spots, often with a yellow halo. The other common causes are sunburn (dry, bleached patches on sun-facing leaves), low humidity or inconsistent watering (crispy brown tips and edges), and, less often, fungal or bacterial leaf spot. Overwatering is the top cause and the most serious, because it damages the roots. Check the soil and the spot texture, soft versus dry, to tell them apart, then match the fix below.
This guidance draws on university extension resources and horticultural consensus rather than first-hand trials, in line with how we rank.
Identify the brown spot type on pothos first
| What you see | Likely cause | Key tell |
|---|---|---|
| Soft dark brown spots, often with yellow halo, from base | Overwatering / root rot | Wet soil, mushy roots, sour smell |
| Dry, crispy brown tips and edges | Low humidity / inconsistent watering / salt buildup | Dry, papery, at margins |
| Dry bleached-brown patches on sun-facing leaves | Sunburn | Only on most exposed side |
| Small brown spots with yellow rings, may spread | Fungal leaf spot | Spots spread in humid, wet conditions |
| Water-soaked dark spots after wet leaves | Bacterial leaf spot | Follows overhead watering |
The fastest diagnostic is texture plus soil: soft spots with soggy soil mean root rot; dry, crispy spots mean an air, water-consistency, or light issue.

Overwatering and root rot, the top cause
Pothos are prized for being nearly unkillable, and the main way people manage to harm them is by overwatering. When soil stays wet, roots cannot get oxygen, they rot, and the failing roots can no longer supply the leaves, which develop soft dark brown spots, often ringed with yellow, sometimes spreading from the lower leaves. Below the soil you will find the giveaways: wet, poorly draining mix, a sour or musty smell, and mushy brown or black roots instead of firm white ones.
Fix it by letting the top inch or two of soil dry before watering, always emptying the saucer, and using a pot with drainage holes. If root rot has set in, unpot the plant, trim away all mushy dark roots with clean scissors, and repot in fresh, well-draining mix. For the recovery process, see how to save an overwatered plant, and for watering rhythm, how often to water pothos.
Low humidity, inconsistent watering and salts
Brown, dry, crispy tips and edges are a different story from soft root-rot spots. They usually mean the air is too dry, the plant is being allowed to get too dry between waterings, or salts from tap water and fertilizer have built up in the soil. Pothos tolerate average home humidity but suffer in very dry air, especially in winter when heating runs.
Water consistently so the plant does not swing between soggy and bone dry, flush the soil thoroughly every couple of months to leach out accumulated salts (water until it runs freely from the drainage holes), and if your tap water is heavily chlorinated or softened, switch to filtered or dechlorinated water. A pebble tray or grouping plants together raises local humidity modestly; see humidifier vs pebble tray.

Sunburn from direct light
Pothos want bright indirect light. In direct sun, the leaves scorch, producing dry, bleached-to-brown patches concentrated on the side facing the window and the most exposed leaves. The tell is that the damage is dry rather than soft and is clearly tied to light exposure. Move the plant back from the window to bright indirect light. Too little light, by contrast, does not brown the leaves but causes leggy growth and fading of the variegation, so aim for bright but indirect. General placement is covered in how to care for pothos.
Fungal and bacterial brown spots on pothos
Less common indoors, fungal and bacterial leaf spots can appear if leaves stay wet and airflow is poor. Fungal spots are small, brown, often with a yellow ring, and can spread in humid conditions; bacterial spots look water-soaked and follow overhead watering. For both, remove affected leaves, stop misting or wetting the foliage, water only at the soil, and improve airflow. A copper-based houseplant fungicide can help with persistent fungal spread, but sanitation and dry foliage usually resolve it.

Step-by-step fix
- Check the soil and spot texture. Soft spots plus soggy soil mean root rot; dry spots mean air, water-consistency, or light.
- If root rot, unpot and inspect. Trim mushy roots, repot in fresh well-draining mix, and water less.
- If crispy tips, fix consistency and salts. Water steadily, flush the soil, and use filtered water if tap is heavily treated.
- If sunburn, move out of direct sun to bright indirect light.
- If fungal, remove affected leaves, keep foliage dry, and improve airflow.
- Trim damaged leaves at the stem or along the natural edge; they will not recover.
Preventing brown spots on pothos leaves
- Water only when the top inch or two is dry, and never let the pot sit in water.
- Use a pot with drainage holes and a well-draining mix.
- Give bright indirect light, away from direct sun.
- Flush the soil periodically to prevent salt buildup, and feed lightly.
- Keep foliage dry and provide decent airflow to prevent leaf-spot diseases.
Nearly all pothos brown spots trace back to watering, so get that right and the plant thrives. For the related symptom see why is my pothos turning yellow and the general guide yellow leaves on houseplants, or return to the Houseplants & Indoor Greenery hub.
