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Succulents need a mix that is at least half coarse mineral material. The standard recipe is one part potting soil, one part coarse sand or fine gravel, and one part pumice or perlite — roughly 60 to 70 percent mineral by volume. The purpose is drainage and air: succulent roots evolved in gritty ground that dries within days, and they rot in soil that stays damp for a week. Ordinary potting mix, built around peat or coir to hold moisture, is the single most common cause of dead succulents indoors. Bagged cactus mix helps but is usually still too retentive without added grit.
What is the actual recipe?
Mix by volume, not by weight, and use a bucket rather than trying to judge it in the pot. Any of these work; the first is the everyday version and the last is what serious collectors use.
| Mix | Proportions | Drainage | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Everyday succulent mix | 1 potting soil : 1 coarse sand : 1 perlite | Good | Echeveria, sedum, haworthia, jade |
| Pumice version | 1 potting soil : 2 pumice | Very good | Most succulents; the easiest to get right |
| Bagged cactus mix, amended | 1 cactus mix : 1 pumice or perlite | Good | Anyone not mixing from scratch |
| Gritty mix, no soil | 1 pumice : 1 calcined clay : 1 crushed granite | Excellent | Cacti, lithops, collectors |
| Standard potting soil | As sold | Poor | Not succulents |
Aim for particle sizes roughly between an eighth and a quarter of an inch. That is the range that creates air pockets. University extension guidance on cactus and succulent culture, including from Utah State and the University of Arizona cooperative extension programs, consistently emphasizes coarse, sharply draining media over any specific ingredient list — the principle matters more than the brand.

What does each ingredient do?
- Pumice. The best single amendment. Porous volcanic rock that holds a little moisture and a lot of air, does not float or compact, and lasts indefinitely. If you buy one thing, buy this.
- Perlite. Cheaper and widely available, does the same job, but it is light and floats to the surface when watered from above. Perfectly good in a blend.
- Coarse sand. Improves drainage only if it is genuinely coarse. Horticultural or builders sand, never play sand or beach sand.
- Calcined clay. Sold as turface or as oil-absorbent granules. Holds moisture in its pores while keeping large air gaps between particles.
- Crushed granite or poultry grit. Pure drainage and weight, useful for top-heavy plants that tip over.
- Potting soil or coir. The nutrient and moisture fraction. Necessary in small proportion; ruinous in large.
- Bark fines. Optional, adds structure, breaks down over a couple of years.
What to leave out: peat-heavy mixes sold for seed starting, anything advertising moisture-retaining crystals or a feed-for-six-months formulation, garden soil from outside, and vermiculite, which holds far too much water for this purpose.

Does the mix change how you water?
Yes, and this is where people get caught out. A gritty mix dries quickly, so succulents in it need watering more often than the once-a-month advice suggests — typically every 10 to 21 days in summer and much less in winter. The method is to soak thoroughly until water runs from the drainage hole, then leave it completely alone until the mix is dry all the way through. Frequent small sips keep the top damp and the roots thirsty, which is the worst of both.
Check with a finger two inches down or by the weight of the pot. If you have already overwatered, the recovery steps are in how to save an overwatered plant, and constantly damp mix is also what breeds the pests covered in how to get rid of fungus gnats.
The difference between mixes and soils is explained in potting mix vs potting soil, repotting technique is in how to repot a houseplant, and the bagged mixes owners rate highest are in our potting mix picks.
We never buy or physically handle the products we rank — recommendations come from aggregated owner reviews and horticultural consensus, described in how we rank.
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