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How to Start a Gas Leaf Blower

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Cold start sequence: fuel on, switch to ON, press the primer bulb six to ten times until fuel circulates, set choke to FULL, pull the cord until it coughs once, then immediately move the choke to HALF or RUN and pull again. It should start within two or three pulls. The most common mistake is leaving the choke on full after the first cough, which floods and stalls the engine within seconds. A warm engine needs no choke and no priming at all — switch on and pull. Whole process, about 30 seconds.

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Cold start, step by step

  1. Check the fuel. Correct mix, and fresher than about 30 days. This one item causes more no-start calls than everything else combined.
  2. Set the unit on flat ground and hold it steady with a foot on the housing or a hand on the frame. Never start a blower while holding it in the air.
  3. Ignition switch to ON or I. Many blowers have a switch that returns to STOP automatically after shutdown, and it is missed constantly.
  4. Prime: press the bulb 6 to 10 times until you see fuel moving through it and it feels firm. Stop there — over-priming floods the engine.
  5. Choke to FULL (often marked with a closed symbol or position 1).
  6. Set the throttle to the start position if your model has a throttle lock; many handhelds have a cruise control lever that should be at the low or start detent.
  7. Pull the starter cord briskly — a fast, smooth pull of about 18 to 24 inches, not a slow drag and not a full-arm yank. Pull until the engine coughs or fires once, typically two to five pulls.
  8. Move the choke to HALF or RUN immediately after that first cough. This is the critical moment.
  9. Pull again. It should start within one to three pulls.
  10. Let it idle 30 to 60 seconds to warm before applying throttle. A cold two-stroke run hard from the first second wears faster.
Overhead view of a person clearing autumn leaves from a driveway with a blower, in warm evening lamplight

Warm restart

A blower that has been running in the last 10 to 15 minutes needs neither priming nor choke, and adding either is how a warm engine floods.

  1. Ignition switch to ON.
  2. Choke to RUN (fully open).
  3. Pull. One or two pulls should do it.

If a warm engine refuses after three or four pulls, it is likely lightly flooded — go to the section below rather than continuing to pull.

Golden-hour view of a person clearing autumn leaves from a driveway with a blower

Clearing a flooded engine

Flooding smells strongly of gasoline and the plug will be wet. Two methods:

Method 1, no tools. Choke fully OPEN (run position), throttle held wide open, and pull the cord 10 to 15 times. The open throttle lets air in to clear the excess fuel through the cylinder. Then return the throttle to idle and start normally.

Method 2, with a plug wrench.

  1. Remove the spark plug boot, then the plug.
  2. Pull the starter cord 5 to 10 times with the plug out to blow raw fuel out of the cylinder. Point the plug hole away from you and keep the plug lead well clear of it — there is a live ignition and vaporized fuel present.
  3. Dry the plug electrode with a rag, or fit a new plug. A plug soaked repeatedly is often worth replacing anyway at $4 to $8.
  4. Refit the plug to the manufacturer torque, reconnect the boot, and start with the choke open.

The four faults behind a blower that will not start

CauseSymptomFix
Stale or wrong fuelCranks, will not fire, or starts and diesDrain, refill with fresh correct mix
Fouled spark plugNo fire at all, plug black or wetClean or replace, $4–$8
Clogged air filterStarts, runs rough, low powerClean or replace, $5–$15
Gummed carburetorFires briefly on prime then diesCarb cleaner, or rebuild kit

Fuel is the answer far more often than anything else. Ethanol-blended gasoline starts degrading in about 30 days and absorbs atmospheric water, which separates out and leaves varnish in the tiny carburetor jets. That is why the blower that ran fine in November will not start in April. Broader diagnostics are in why is my leaf blower losing power and leaf blower maintenance.

Overhead view of a person clearing autumn leaves from a driveway with a blower, in soft overcast light

Fuel: get it right

Two-stroke handheld blowers run on a gasoline and oil premix, most commonly 50 to 1, though 40 to 1 appears on some units. The correct ratio is printed on the fuel cap or in the manual — check it rather than assuming, because too little oil seizes an engine and too much fouls plugs and smokes.

Mixing ratios and measuring are covered in how to mix gas for a leaf blower.

Safety and rules

Gas blowers combine a spinning impeller, hot exhaust, flammable fuel and serious noise. Practical points:

Also check your local rules before you start. Many US municipalities restrict leaf blower hours, some restrict gas models specifically, and a growing number of California cities and the state itself have moved against new gas-powered equipment. These are local and state rules that differ substantially — see leaf blower noise rules and are gas leaf blowers banned in California, and confirm with your own city.

Related reading: gas vs battery leaf blower, how to clear leaves fast, best leaf blower.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

How many times should you press the primer bulb?

Until you see fuel moving through the clear bulb and it feels firm — usually six to ten presses on a cold engine, and the manual for most handheld two-stroke units specifies a figure in that range. Do not count blindly. If the bulb never firms up, either the fuel line has a leak, the bulb itself is cracked, or the tank is empty. Over-priming is a real cause of flooding, so stop as soon as fuel is visibly circulating rather than pumping a fixed number of times.

Why does my leaf blower start then die immediately?

Almost always because it is still on full choke, or because the fuel is stale. On a cold start you move the choke to the half or run position the moment the engine first fires, and leaving it on full chokes it out within a few seconds. If the choke position is correct and it still dies, the usual cause is fuel older than about 30 days, especially ethanol-blended gas that has absorbed water and separated. Drain it, refill with fresh mix, and try again.

How do you start a flooded leaf blower?

Move the choke to the fully open run position, hold the throttle wide open, and pull the starter ten to fifteen times to clear the excess fuel through the cylinder. If that does not work, remove the spark plug, pull the cord several times with the plug out to blow the cylinder clear, dry or replace the plug, refit it and try again with the choke open. Do not keep priming — that is what caused it. Keep the plug lead away from the plug hole while cranking.

What fuel mix does a leaf blower use?

Most handheld two-stroke leaf blowers use a 50 to 1 gasoline to two-stroke oil ratio, though 40 to 1 appears on some older and some professional units — the correct figure is printed on the fuel cap or in the manual, and it is not a guess you should make. Use 89 octane or higher with 10 percent ethanol or less, mixed with an oil certified to the manufacturer specification. Four-stroke blowers take straight gasoline and have a separate oil sump.

Why will my leaf blower not start after winter storage?

Stale fuel, in the large majority of cases. Ethanol-blended gasoline begins degrading in about 30 days and absorbs atmospheric water, which separates in the tank and leaves gum in the carburetor jets. Drain the old fuel, refill with fresh mix, and try again. If it still will not start, check the spark plug for fouling and the air filter for dirt. The prevention is to run the tank dry or add a fuel stabilizer before storing it for the season.