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Winterizing Your Grill and Patio

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Over-the-shoulder view of a person grilling vegetables, in soft overcast light

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Cold weather does not damage outdoor equipment — trapped moisture, grease and standing water do. The end-of-season job is therefore: deep clean the grill and dry it completely, oil the cast iron, disconnect the propane tank and store it outdoors and upright, bring in every cushion, cover or store the furniture with water shedding off rather than pooling, drain and disconnect the hoses, shut off the outdoor faucet, and clean out the fire pit. Budget an afternoon.

Almost every spring complaint — the rusted burner, the mildewed cushion, the split faucet, the cover full of ice — traces back to one of those steps being skipped in October.

The grill

  1. Burn off, then scrape. Run a gas grill on high for 15 minutes with the lid closed to carbonize residue, then brush the grates while they are still hot. On a charcoal grill, let it burn out fully and clean cold.
  2. Deep clean the interior. Remove grates and flavorizer bars or heat tents, scrape the firebox, and clear the grease tray and drip pan completely. Old grease attracts rodents and insects looking for winter shelter, and a grill full of nesting material is a fire waiting for spring.
  3. Check and clear the burner ports. Blocked ports produce uneven flame and, in the worst case, incomplete combustion. A stiff wire or a paperclip clears them. Look for rust-through while you are in there — this is the right moment to order replacements for spring.
  4. Wash and dry every surface. Warm soapy water on the exterior, a stainless cleaner on stainless, and then dry it properly. Moisture left under a cover is what causes the rust people blame on winter.
  5. Oil the cast iron. A thin coat of cooking oil on cast iron grates keeps rust off through a damp winter. Do not oil enameled or stainless grates.
  6. Disconnect the propane tank. Close the valve, disconnect the hose, and fit the plastic safety cap over the valve outlet.
  7. Protect the hose and regulator. If the grill stays outside, wrap the disconnected hose end in a plastic bag so insects cannot nest in it — a spider web inside a burner tube is a classic reason a grill will not light in April.
  8. Cover it, or store it. A vented, strapped cover on a dry grill is the outdoor answer. A garage or shed is better if you have the room — but only for the grill itself, never for the propane tank.

Never bring a propane tank indoors. Not into a garage, a shed, a basement or an enclosed porch, in any season. Propane is heavier than air and a slow leak in an enclosed space pools at floor level instead of dispersing. Store it outdoors, upright, shaded, away from the house and from any ignition source. And when the grill comes back into service, never operate it indoors, in a garage or in any partially enclosed space — grills produce carbon monoxide, which is odorless, and it accumulates in enclosed spaces to lethal concentrations.

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  • Waterproof fabric with a water-repellent finish
  • Air vents to reduce condensation and wind lofting
  • Click-close straps and elastic hem for a snug fit
  • Built-in support pole included to shed water rather than pool it

Why buy it: the support pole is the part that matters — a cover that ponds water freezes into a sheet of ice and stretches or splits by February.

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We do not buy or physically handle the products we rank — verdicts come from aggregated owner ratings and expert consensus, described on how we rank. The ranked fields are in the best gas grill covers and the best patio furniture covers.

Wide view of a person grilling vegetables, in warm late-afternoon light

Patio furniture

Cushions come in, without exception. Fabric that freezes wet grows mildew that no amount of spring scrubbing removes, and the foam breaks down through repeated freeze-thaw cycles. Wash them per the care label, dry them completely — genuinely completely, because damp foam in a sealed bag is worse than leaving them out — and store them somewhere dry and ventilated. A deck box works if it drains; a sealed plastic tote in a damp garage does not.

Frames depend on what they are made of:

MaterialWinter approachWhy
AluminumCover outdoorsDoes not rust; only the fasteners and welds need care
HDPE resin (Adirondack style)Cover outdoors, or leave itGenuinely weatherproof; stack or strap it against wind
Teak and hardwoodCover outdoorsWeathers to gray harmlessly; keep it off wet ground
Powder-coated steelStore inside if possibleAny chip lets water in and it rusts from beneath the coating
Resin wickerStore insideFreeze-thaw cycles make the strands brittle and they crack
Glass tabletopsStore inside, flatThermal stress and ice load crack tempered glass
UmbrellasStore inside, dry and closed looselyWet fabric stored tightly furled mildews; wind destroys open umbrellas

If you are covering rather than storing, the detail that decides whether the cover works is water shedding. A flat cover collects rain, the rain freezes into a heavy sheet, and by February the seams have stretched or split. Use a cover with a support pole or a peaked fit, make sure it has air vents so condensation escapes and wind cannot balloon it, and strap it down properly. Lift it on a dry day now and then to air what is underneath.

Overhead view of a person grilling vegetables, in warm evening lamplight

Water: hoses, faucets and anything that holds it

This is the item on the list with the largest possible repair bill, because a split pipe inside a wall does not announce itself until spring.

Fire pits and heaters

Three-quarter view of a person grilling vegetables, in soft overcast light

The whole list

  1. Burn off, scrape and deep clean the grill, including the grease tray.
  2. Clear the burner ports and check for rust-through.
  3. Dry every surface; oil the cast iron grates.
  4. Disconnect the propane tank, cap it, store it outdoors and upright.
  5. Bag the hose end so insects cannot nest in it.
  6. Fit a vented, strapped grill cover, or move the grill under cover.
  7. Wash, dry and store all cushions indoors.
  8. Store wicker, glass tops, umbrellas and chipped steel inside; cover the rest with a peaked, vented, strapped cover.
  9. Disconnect, drain and store hoses; shut the interior valve and drain the outdoor faucet.
  10. Empty birdbaths, fountains, planters and anything else that holds water.
  11. Clean out the fire pit and cover or invert it.
  12. Note anything that needs replacing — burners, grates, a cover, a cushion set — and order it in the off-season when it is cheaper.

Where to go next

For the deep-clean detail, how to clean a gas grill and how to clean a charcoal grill. On furniture specifically, how to store patio furniture in winter and how to clean outdoor cushions. On the tank, can you leave a propane tank outside in winter. And if the grill needs parts before spring, how to replace gas grill burners. Everything else sits under the outdoor living and grills hub.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

Can you leave a gas grill outside all winter?

Yes, provided it is clean, dry and properly covered. Cold does not damage a gas grill — moisture does. Grease left on the burners and firebox attracts pests and holds water against the metal, and a cover that traps condensation rusts a grill faster than no cover at all. Clean it thoroughly, dry it completely, coat the cast iron grates lightly with cooking oil, then fit a vented, well-strapped cover. If you have covered storage, using it is better still.

Where should I store my propane tank in winter?

Outdoors, upright, in a shaded spot away from the house — never in a garage, shed, basement or any enclosed space, in any season. Propane is heavier than air, so a slow leak in an enclosed space pools at floor level rather than dispersing, which is why this rule has no exceptions for cold weather. Cold itself does not harm the tank; it only lowers the pressure temporarily. Disconnect the tank from the grill and fit the safety cap over the valve.

Do I need to bring patio furniture inside for winter?

Bring in the cushions without exception — fabric that freezes wet grows mildew and the foam degrades. The frames depend on the material. Aluminum, HDPE resin and quality teak all handle winter outdoors under a cover. Wicker and rattan, powder-coated steel with any chipped spots, and glass tabletops are all better off in a garage or shed, since freeze-thaw cycles crack resin wicker and lifted paint lets steel frames rust from the inside.

Should I cover my patio furniture or store it?

Store it if you have the space; cover it if you do not. Covers work well as long as the cover keeps water moving off rather than collecting — a cover that ponds water freezes into a heavy sheet of ice that stretches seams and splits fabric by midwinter. Look for a support pole or a peaked fit, air vents to release condensation, and straps that stop the whole thing sailing away in the first storm. Lift and air the cover on a dry day occasionally.

What happens if I leave a hose connected to an outdoor faucet in winter?

The trapped water freezes, expands and can split the faucet or the pipe inside the wall — and you often do not discover it until the first spring use floods a wall cavity. Disconnect every hose, drain it and store it coiled indoors, then shut off the interior valve serving the outdoor faucet and open the outside spigot to drain the line. Insulated faucet covers add protection. Frost-free sillcocks still need the hose removed to work as designed.