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Mix two-stroke fuel at the ratio in your engine's manual — most modern chainsaws specify 50:1, which is 2.6 fl oz of two-stroke oil per US gallon of fresh gasoline. Pour about half the gasoline into an approved fuel can, add all of the oil, cap it and shake, then add the remaining gasoline and shake again. Use fuel with 10 percent ethanol or less, add stabilizer if it will sit more than a month, label the can with the ratio and date, and use it within 30 days. Ratios are not universal: 40:1 and 32:1 exist, and using the wrong one either seizes the engine or fouls it.
Ratio chart
| Ratio | Oil per 1 US gallon | Oil per 1/2 gallon | Oil per quart | Typically specified for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50:1 | 2.6 fl oz | 1.3 fl oz | 0.6 fl oz | Most modern chainsaws, trimmers, blowers |
| 40:1 | 3.2 fl oz | 1.6 fl oz | 0.8 fl oz | Some saws and older equipment |
| 32:1 | 4.0 fl oz | 2.0 fl oz | 1.0 fl oz | Older two-strokes, some commercial units |
| 25:1 | 5.1 fl oz | 2.6 fl oz | 1.3 fl oz | Vintage equipment; check the manual |
Use the ratio your manual specifies, not the one you used on your last machine. Too little oil means insufficient lubrication of the crank and cylinder, and a seized engine is usually a scrapped engine. Too much oil fouls the spark plug, carbons the exhaust port and muffler screen, and makes the saw smoke heavily and run poorly. Neither error is cheap.

What to buy
- Two-stroke oil rated for air-cooled engines, meeting ISO-L-EGD or JASO FD. Do not use outboard two-stroke oil, which is formulated for water-cooled engines, and never use motor oil.
- Fresh gasoline, 89 octane or as specified, with no more than 10 percent ethanol. Most manufacturers prohibit E15 and above and will not honor a warranty claim on fuel damage.
- Ethanol-free gasoline if a station near you sells it. It stores far better and eliminates the main cause of carburetor trouble.
- A fuel stabilizer, added at mixing, if the can will sit beyond a month.
- An approved fuel container with a proper spout, and a funnel. Label it with the ratio and the date you mixed it.
- Or skip all of it: canned pre-mixed two-stroke fuel is stabilized, ethanol-free, correctly proportioned and stores for years. It costs several times as much per gallon and is the right choice for equipment used a handful of times a season.
Mixing, step by step
- Check the manual for the ratio. It is printed on the fuel cap or in the specifications section. Do not assume 50:1.
- Work outdoors, away from ignition sources. No smoking, no running engines, no pilot lights. Gasoline vapor is heavier than air and travels along the ground.
- Pour roughly half the gasoline into the can. Never mix in the saw's fuel tank — there is no way to blend it and the first thing the engine draws is neat gasoline or neat oil.
- Add the full measure of oil. Use the dosing chamber on the bottle or a measuring cup. Eyeballing it is how engines get destroyed.
- Cap and shake for 15 to 20 seconds. The oil must be genuinely in solution, not floating.
- Add the remaining gasoline and shake again. The two-stage method disperses the oil far better than pouring everything in at once.
- Add stabilizer now if the fuel will sit more than a month, and shake again.
- Label the can with the ratio and the date. A can of unmarked mix is a can you will end up throwing away.
- Shake before every fill. Oil settles slowly in a can left standing, and a shake takes two seconds.
- Wipe up spills and let vapors clear before starting the engine.

Why ethanol is behind most chainsaw starting problems
Read enough one-star reviews of gas chainsaws and one story dominates: the saw ran fine, sat for a season, and now will not start. The cause is fuel chemistry, not build quality.
Ethanol is hygroscopic — it draws water out of the air. In a vented fuel can or a saw tank, ethanol-blended gasoline gradually absorbs moisture, and past a certain point the mixture phase-separates: a layer of water and ethanol drops to the bottom while the gasoline floats above. The two-stroke oil separates alongside it. What is left in the carburetor when the light fractions evaporate is varnish, and varnish in a jet the diameter of a pin is enough to stop the engine drawing fuel entirely.
The timescale surprises people. This begins in weeks, not months, and it happens faster in hot sheds and in humid climates. It is the single most common reason a two-stroke saw fails, and it is entirely preventable.
Storing fuel and storing the saw
| Situation | What to do |
|---|---|
| Using the saw weekly | Mix one gallon at a time, use within 30 days |
| Using it monthly | Mix with stabilizer, use within 90 days |
| Using it a few times a season | Buy canned pre-mixed fuel — cheaper than a carburetor rebuild |
| Storing over winter | Drain the tank, then run the engine until it stops to empty the carburetor |
| Fuel older than 90 days | Do not use it — dispose of it at a household hazardous waste site |
| Can left open or unlabeled | Assume it is contaminated and dispose of it |
Running the carburetor dry is the step people skip and it is the one that matters most. Draining the tank leaves fuel sitting in the carburetor bowl and passages, which is exactly where varnish causes trouble. Start the engine after draining and let it run until it stalls.

Mistakes that cost engines
- Guessing the ratio. Lean mixes seize engines. Rich mixes foul plugs and carbon exhaust ports.
- Mixing in the saw's tank. There is no way to blend it, and the engine draws unmixed fuel.
- Using outboard or automotive oil. Wrong formulation for an air-cooled engine; it will not protect the cylinder at operating temperature.
- Using E15 or E85. Prohibited by most manufacturers, damaging to fuel lines and seals, and a warranty void.
- Using fuel from last season. This is the number one cause of a saw that will not start.
- Storing the saw full of untreated mix. Guarantees a carburetor problem next spring.
- Not shaking the can before filling. Oil settles, and the last fills from a standing can run lean.
If the saw is smoking heavily, an over-rich mix is one of the possible causes — the diagnosis is in why is my chainsaw smoking.
Safety
Mix and fuel outdoors, never in a closed garage, with no ignition source nearby. Let a hot engine cool for several minutes before refuelling — fuel spilled on a hot muffler ignites. Move at least 10 feet from the fueling spot before starting the saw, and never refuel with the engine running. Store fuel in an approved container, out of sunlight and away from living spaces and appliances with pilot lights, and dispose of old fuel through a household hazardous waste program rather than pouring it out.
The cutting itself carries the greater risk. Kickback is the mechanism behind most serious chainsaw injuries: contact between the upper quadrant of the bar nose and any solid object drives the saw backward and upward toward the operator's head and shoulder in a fraction of a second. Never cut with the nose, keep the tip in view, wrap your thumb fully under the front handle, stand slightly to the side of the cutting line, and keep the chain sharp and correctly tensioned. OSHA lists a hard hat, safety glasses, hearing protection, heavy gloves, cut-resistant chaps and ankle-covering boots as standard chainsaw kit — see best chainsaw chaps. Gas saws exceed NIOSH's 85-decibel eight-hour exposure limit immediately, so hearing protection is mandatory. Never cut from a ladder or above shoulder height, and hand leaning, split, hollow or power-line-adjacent trees to a certified arborist.
We never buy, test or physically handle the products we rank. Recommendations come from aggregated owner reviews, star ratings, review volume and expert consensus — see how we rank.
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