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Yes. A smart plug draws roughly 0.5 to 1 watt continuously, even when the outlet it controls is switched off. The radio, the microcontroller and the small power supply inside never sleep, because the plug has to stay reachable to receive an on command. One watt running around the clock is about 8.8 kilowatt-hours a year, which at the US average residential price of roughly 17 cents per kWh reported by the Energy Information Administration comes to about $1.50 per plug per year. Most plugs pay that back easily by killing larger standby loads.
How much does that actually cost a year?
The arithmetic is simple and worth doing before you install ten of them. Annual kilowatt-hours equal watts multiplied by 8.76. Multiply that by your own rate, which you will find on your utility bill and which varies enormously by state — from around 11 cents per kWh in parts of the South to over 30 cents in Hawaii and California, on EIA figures as of 2026.
| Standby draw | Per year | At 12 cents | At 17 cents | At 30 cents |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0.3 W (low-power mesh) | 2.6 kWh | $0.32 | $0.45 | $0.79 |
| 0.5 W | 4.4 kWh | $0.53 | $0.74 | $1.31 |
| 1.0 W (typical Wi-Fi) | 8.8 kWh | $1.05 | $1.49 | $2.63 |
| 1.5 W (Wi-Fi with metering) | 13.1 kWh | $1.58 | $2.23 | $3.94 |
| Ten plugs at 1.0 W | 88 kWh | $10.51 | $14.89 | $26.28 |
So a single plug is trivial, and a house full of them is a real if modest line item — comparable to leaving one LED bulb on permanently.

When does a smart plug save more than it costs?
Whenever the device it controls draws more in standby than the plug does. That is a low bar for a surprising number of appliances. The US Department of Energy has long estimated that always-on standby loads account for a meaningful share of residential electricity use, and the biggest offenders in a typical home are easy to name.
- Game consoles in instant-on mode — historically several watts to well over ten, and the single best candidate for a smart plug.
- Older televisions and soundbars — often a few watts each; modern sets are much better.
- Printers — an inkjet left on can idle at several watts and periodically wake to clean its heads.
- Cable and satellite boxes — among the worst offenders, though many cannot be power-cycled without a long reboot.
- Second refrigerators and beer fridges — not standby, but the classic case where scheduling or switching off entirely saves real money.
- Space heaters and window air conditioners — worth scheduling, but check the wattage limits first. Plug them directly into the wall rather than an extension cord, and keep one heat-producing appliance per outlet.
What is not worth it: a table lamp with an LED bulb and a switch, a phone charger with nothing plugged in, or anything you already unplug. Adding a one-watt plug to save nothing is a net loss.

How do you keep the standby draw as low as possible?
Three practical moves. Choose Zigbee, Z-Wave or Matter over Thread plugs where you are installing several, since low-power radios sit at the bottom of the range. Skip energy monitoring on plugs where you do not need the data, because the metering chip adds a little. And unplug the ones doing nothing — a drawer full of powered-but-idle plugs is pure waste.
If your goal is measurement rather than switching, a monitoring plug is worth its slightly higher draw for a month or two on each suspect appliance, then move it on. The plugs owners rate most highly for accurate metering and reliable scheduling are in our smart plug picks, and the practical uses are set out in what you can do with a smart plug.
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More from this hub: Smart Home & Security · Smart plug wattage limits · Smart plug vs smart switch · How to set up smart plugs · How we rank
