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You can convert a propane grill to natural gas only if the manufacturer sells a conversion kit for that exact model. Natural gas arrives at lower pressure and carries less than half the energy per cubic foot of propane, so the burner orifices must be enlarged to factory-specified sizes, the regulator swapped or removed, and a natural-gas hose fitted. Grills labeled convertible have a kit; many grills are not convertible at all. Running any grill on the wrong gas without the correct parts causes dangerous flames, sooting and carbon-monoxide risk — this is a parts-and-pressure problem, not a hose swap.
Why the two gases aren't interchangeable
The two fuels differ in exactly the two ways that matter at a burner: pressure and energy density. Propane is delivered from its tank regulator at roughly 11 inches of water column and holds about 2,500 BTU per cubic foot; residential natural gas runs near 7 inches of water column and only about 1,000 BTU per cubic foot. To pull the same heat out of a leaner, lower-pressure fuel, each burner needs a larger orifice hole and a different regulator arrangement. That is why a kit exists at all — it is re-sizing the metering hardware for a different gas.
| Property | Propane (LP) | Natural gas (NG) |
|---|---|---|
| Supply pressure | ~11 in water column | ~7 in water column |
| Energy density | ~2,500 BTU/cu ft | ~1,000 BTU/cu ft |
| Orifice size needed | Smaller | Larger |
| Fuel source | Portable tank | Fixed line from house meter |
| Regulator | Tank-mounted | Different or none at grill |

What actually has to change
A proper conversion is three coordinated changes, all supplied by the factory kit: the burner orifices (the biggest job), the regulator, and the hose and fitting. Skip any one and the grill runs wrong.
- Burner orifices. Replaced with larger, pre-sized orifices matched to the burner's BTU rating on natural gas. This is not a place to guess or hand-drill.
- Regulator. The propane tank regulator is removed or replaced, since natural gas is already regulated at the house.
- Hose and quick-connect. A natural-gas-rated hose runs to a shutoff and quick-connect fitting on the supply line.
If the manufacturer does not list a kit for your model, treat the grill as non-convertible. Modifying it anyway voids the appliance's safety listing and warranty and is genuinely hazardous.

Which parts are DIY and which need a pro?
The grill-side conversion, with a factory kit and its instructions, is within reach of a careful DIYer on a convertible model. The gas supply is not. Running a natural-gas line from the meter to the patio, adding a shutoff and quick-connect, and pressure-testing the joints should be done by a licensed plumber or gas fitter, typically under a permit and inspection. Your local building department sets those rules. The practical division is simple: kit converts the grill, licensed pro installs the line that feeds it.

Is conversion cheaper than buying a natural-gas grill?
Often not, once the line is counted. The conversion kit itself is usually 30 to 100 dollars, but the natural-gas supply line and quick-connect commonly run from several hundred dollars to over a thousand installed, depending on distance from the meter, whether the meter has spare capacity, and local labor. Get a plumber's quote for the line before deciding. If you already have a gas line stubbed out near the patio, conversion makes sense; if not, a purpose-built natural-gas grill on a new line can be the cleaner buy — see our best gas grill picks, several of which ship in a natural-gas version.
Whichever fuel you settle on, a converted grill still lives or dies by corrosion, so the same care that governs how long a gas grill lasts applies, and safe siting still means keeping it the right distance from the house.
We do not buy, test or physically handle any product on this site. Guidance here reflects manufacturer conversion documentation and gas-appliance safety standards — see how we rank.
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