Skip to main content
Garden & Home Reviews is reader-supported. We earn affiliate commissions from qualifying purchases — how this works.

CRAFTSMAN Circular Saw Review (CMES510): Plenty of Saw for the Money

Home/Resources/Power Tools & Workshop/CRAFTSMAN Circular Saw Review
Three-quarter view of a person drilling into a timber board on a workbench, sawdust in the air, in warm late-afternoon light

Affiliate Disclosure

Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — at no extra cost to you. We do not buy, test, or physically handle the products we cover; our rankings come from aggregated owner reviews, ratings and expert consensus. Commissions never change our verdicts. How we rank · full disclosure.

How we are funded: the links below are affiliate links — buy through them and we earn a small commission at no cost to you. It never changes our verdicts. We do not buy or physically handle the products we review; every verdict comes from aggregated owner reviews and expert consensus. Full method: how we rank.

The verdict in 90 seconds

The CRAFTSMAN CMES510 is a genuinely good saw for someone who uses a circular saw occasionally, and a compromise for anyone who uses one daily. The 15 amp motor is the same amperage as professional sidewinders and it cuts framing lumber without complaint. What you give up for the lower price is the electric brake, the magnesium shoe and a couple of pounds of refinement. Owners rate it highly because it is priced honestly for what it is — the negative reviews are almost entirely about the brake and about base-plate accuracy.

Over-the-shoulder view of a person drilling into a timber board on a workbench, sawdust in the air, in warm evening lamplight

What owners consistently praise

Power for the money. This is the theme that dominates the positive reviews. A 15 amp motor at 5,500 rpm is real capability, and owners cutting decking, subfloor, fence rails and two-by framing consistently report that it does not bog. Buyers upgrading from an old 12 or 13 amp saw describe an obvious step up.

The blade change. A proper spindle lock and an on-board wrench mean swapping blades takes under a minute with one hand. Owners who alternate between a framing blade and a plywood blade rate this highly — it removes the excuse for cutting sheet goods with the wrong blade.

Simple, conventional controls. Depth and bevel adjust with levers rather than knobs, the markings are legible, and there is nothing to learn. First-time saw owners consistently describe it as unintimidating, which is worth something.

Price and availability. At roughly 60 to 80 dollars it lets someone buy a real saw rather than a toy, and CRAFTSMAN parts and blades are stocked everywhere. Several reviews describe buying it as a second saw specifically to keep a rough blade in.

What owners actually complain about

No electric brake. The blade spins down slowly after the trigger releases. Experienced users adapt without thinking; new users report the surprise of a still-spinning blade as they move to set the saw down. It is the most cited reason to spend more.

Base plate flex and squareness. The stamped shoe is the second most common complaint. Owners report needing to check the 90-degree stop against a square out of the box, and a few describe the plate deflecting slightly under hand pressure during long rips, which shows up as a cut that drifts out of square through thick stock.

The stock blade. As with almost every saw at any price, the included blade is a compromise. Owners cutting plywood or melamine describe tear-out and replace it early. Budget 20 to 30 dollars for a 40 to 60 tooth blade if finish matters.

Weight and balance. Around 10 pounds with the motor set slightly further out than premium saws. In a day of overhead or repetitive cutting owners feel it, and comparisons with the 8.8 pound DEWALT are frequent.

Guard behavior on bevels and thin stock. The lower guard is reported catching when starting angled cuts or cutting thin material, requiring the lift lever. Common across budget saws; still a complaint.

Dust and the cord. The dust port is basic and connecting a vacuum needs an adaptor. The cord is short enough that an extension is standard practice. Neither is a fault so much as a reminder of where the money was saved.

Long-term durability is unproven at volume. Most positive reviews come from occasional users. Owners who put it into daily service report the switch and the depth lever as the first parts to loosen, which is consistent with the price point rather than a defect.

Close-up detail of the material being worked in a power tools & workshop project, in soft early-morning light

Getting the best out of it

Check the shoe against the blade with a machinist square before the first cut and adjust the 90-degree stop screw if needed — five minutes here removes the most common accuracy complaint permanently. Then match the blade to the work: a 24-tooth framing blade for studs and joists, a 40 to 60-tooth blade for plywood and trim, and a dedicated blade for anything laminated. A budget saw with the right blade cuts better than a premium saw with the wrong one, and blade choice is the single largest influence on cut quality at any price.

Because there is no brake, build the habit deliberately: finish the cut, release the trigger, and hold the saw clear of your body and the workpiece until the blade stops. Ten seconds feels long the first few times and becomes automatic. Support the offcut so it cannot pinch the blade, keep the cord routed behind you, and use a clamped straightedge for any cut where the line matters.

Who it suits, and who should buy something else

Buy it if you build a deck one summer and a shelf the next, and a saw that spends most of its life in a cupboard should not cost 160 dollars.

Buy the DEWALT DWE575SB instead if you cut often. The brake, the magnesium shoe and the lower weight are the difference, and our DEWALT circular saw review sets out exactly what the extra buys.

Buy a worm drive instead if you frame for a living or want the blade-left sight line — see worm drive vs sidewinder.

Buy cordless instead if most of your cuts happen away from power — corded vs cordless circular saw covers it, and the ranked field is in our best circular saw guide.

Close-up detail of the material being worked in a power tools & workshop project, in bright midday sun

Specifications

SpecCRAFTSMAN CMES510
Motor15 amp, 5,500 rpm
Blade7-1/4 in., blade-right sidewinder
Depth of cutAbout 2-3/8 in. at 90 degrees
Bevel0 to 55 degrees, positive stop at 45
WeightApproximately 10 lb.
BrakeNone
ShoeStamped steel
Blade changeSpindle lock plus on-board wrench
IncludedCarbide-tipped blade, wrench, edge guide
Warranty3 year limited

The bottom line

Budget tools usually cut power to hit a price; this one cut features instead, which is the better compromise. You get full framing capability and lose the brake, the cast shoe and some refinement. Check the base plate against a square before the first cut, buy a decent blade for whatever you are cutting, and treat the spin-down as a habit rather than a hazard.

Check price on Amazon → (paid link)

Next: build accuracy into the cut with how to cut a straight line with a circular saw, learn the depth rules in how deep a circular saw cuts, square your layout with how to square cuts with a speed square, or start from the power tools and workshop hub.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

Does the CRAFTSMAN CMES510 have an electric brake?

No, and it is the most consequential omission at this price. Without a brake the blade coasts for ten seconds or more after you release the trigger, so the saw has to be held clear of the work and away from your leg until it stops. It is entirely manageable with good habits, and it is how most saws worked for decades. But it is the single feature that separates this saw from the DEWALT DWE575SB, and the reason experienced users tell first-time buyers to spend the extra if they can.

How powerful is the CRAFTSMAN CMES510?

It uses a 15 amp motor spinning at 5,500 rpm, which is the same amperage as saws costing three times as much and slightly higher no-load speed. Amperage is not the whole story — gearing, bearing quality and blade choice all matter — but in practice owners report it cutting nominal two-by lumber, plywood and pressure-treated stock without stalling. When it does bog, the sharpness of the blade is almost always the cause.

Is the CRAFTSMAN CMES510 good for a beginner?

Yes, with one caveat: learn to wait for the blade to stop. The saw itself is forgiving — the controls are conventional, the spindle lock makes blade changes simple, and the price means a beginner is not risking much. Pair it with a straightedge guide, a decent blade for the material, safety glasses and hearing protection. The absence of a brake is the one habit-forming difference from a modern professional saw.

Why do my cuts come out slightly off square?

On budget saws the usual culprit is the base plate. The shoe is stamped steel rather than cast magnesium, so it can flex under hand pressure and can arrive very slightly out of true. Check it with a machinist square against the blade at the 90-degree stop and adjust the bevel stop screw if needed. The other two causes are a dull or bent blade and pushing the saw faster than it wants to cut, which lets the blade wander.

Does it come with a case?

Generally no — the CMES510 typically ships as a bare saw with a carbide-tipped blade, a blade wrench and an edge guide, in a cardboard box. Kit contents vary by retailer, so read the listing. Owners who want the saw protected usually buy a generic tool bag, and several point out that the money saved over a premium saw more than covers it.