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The verdict in 90 seconds
The CRAFTSMAN CMES510 is a genuinely good saw for someone who uses a circular saw occasionally, and a compromise for anyone who uses one daily. The 15 amp motor is the same amperage as professional sidewinders and it cuts framing lumber without complaint. What you give up for the lower price is the electric brake, the magnesium shoe and a couple of pounds of refinement. Owners rate it highly because it is priced honestly for what it is — the negative reviews are almost entirely about the brake and about base-plate accuracy.

Best for the homeowner who needs a real circular saw a handful of times a year
- 15 amp motor at 5,500 rpm
- Bevels to 55 degrees with a positive stop at 45
- Spindle lock for single-wrench blade changes
- Includes a 7-1/4 in. carbide-tipped blade and edge guide
Why buy it: it delivers full-size framing power for around a third of what a professional sidewinder costs, which is the right trade for occasional use.

What owners consistently praise
Power for the money. This is the theme that dominates the positive reviews. A 15 amp motor at 5,500 rpm is real capability, and owners cutting decking, subfloor, fence rails and two-by framing consistently report that it does not bog. Buyers upgrading from an old 12 or 13 amp saw describe an obvious step up.
The blade change. A proper spindle lock and an on-board wrench mean swapping blades takes under a minute with one hand. Owners who alternate between a framing blade and a plywood blade rate this highly — it removes the excuse for cutting sheet goods with the wrong blade.
Simple, conventional controls. Depth and bevel adjust with levers rather than knobs, the markings are legible, and there is nothing to learn. First-time saw owners consistently describe it as unintimidating, which is worth something.
Price and availability. At roughly 60 to 80 dollars it lets someone buy a real saw rather than a toy, and CRAFTSMAN parts and blades are stocked everywhere. Several reviews describe buying it as a second saw specifically to keep a rough blade in.
What owners actually complain about
No electric brake. The blade spins down slowly after the trigger releases. Experienced users adapt without thinking; new users report the surprise of a still-spinning blade as they move to set the saw down. It is the most cited reason to spend more.
Base plate flex and squareness. The stamped shoe is the second most common complaint. Owners report needing to check the 90-degree stop against a square out of the box, and a few describe the plate deflecting slightly under hand pressure during long rips, which shows up as a cut that drifts out of square through thick stock.
The stock blade. As with almost every saw at any price, the included blade is a compromise. Owners cutting plywood or melamine describe tear-out and replace it early. Budget 20 to 30 dollars for a 40 to 60 tooth blade if finish matters.
Weight and balance. Around 10 pounds with the motor set slightly further out than premium saws. In a day of overhead or repetitive cutting owners feel it, and comparisons with the 8.8 pound DEWALT are frequent.
Guard behavior on bevels and thin stock. The lower guard is reported catching when starting angled cuts or cutting thin material, requiring the lift lever. Common across budget saws; still a complaint.
Dust and the cord. The dust port is basic and connecting a vacuum needs an adaptor. The cord is short enough that an extension is standard practice. Neither is a fault so much as a reminder of where the money was saved.
Long-term durability is unproven at volume. Most positive reviews come from occasional users. Owners who put it into daily service report the switch and the depth lever as the first parts to loosen, which is consistent with the price point rather than a defect.

Getting the best out of it
Check the shoe against the blade with a machinist square before the first cut and adjust the 90-degree stop screw if needed — five minutes here removes the most common accuracy complaint permanently. Then match the blade to the work: a 24-tooth framing blade for studs and joists, a 40 to 60-tooth blade for plywood and trim, and a dedicated blade for anything laminated. A budget saw with the right blade cuts better than a premium saw with the wrong one, and blade choice is the single largest influence on cut quality at any price.
Because there is no brake, build the habit deliberately: finish the cut, release the trigger, and hold the saw clear of your body and the workpiece until the blade stops. Ten seconds feels long the first few times and becomes automatic. Support the offcut so it cannot pinch the blade, keep the cord routed behind you, and use a clamped straightedge for any cut where the line matters.
Who it suits, and who should buy something else
Buy it if you build a deck one summer and a shelf the next, and a saw that spends most of its life in a cupboard should not cost 160 dollars.
Buy the DEWALT DWE575SB instead if you cut often. The brake, the magnesium shoe and the lower weight are the difference, and our DEWALT circular saw review sets out exactly what the extra buys.
Buy a worm drive instead if you frame for a living or want the blade-left sight line — see worm drive vs sidewinder.
Buy cordless instead if most of your cuts happen away from power — corded vs cordless circular saw covers it, and the ranked field is in our best circular saw guide.

Specifications
| Spec | CRAFTSMAN CMES510 |
|---|---|
| Motor | 15 amp, 5,500 rpm |
| Blade | 7-1/4 in., blade-right sidewinder |
| Depth of cut | About 2-3/8 in. at 90 degrees |
| Bevel | 0 to 55 degrees, positive stop at 45 |
| Weight | Approximately 10 lb. |
| Brake | None |
| Shoe | Stamped steel |
| Blade change | Spindle lock plus on-board wrench |
| Included | Carbide-tipped blade, wrench, edge guide |
| Warranty | 3 year limited |
The bottom line
Budget tools usually cut power to hit a price; this one cut features instead, which is the better compromise. You get full framing capability and lose the brake, the cast shoe and some refinement. Check the base plate against a square before the first cut, buy a decent blade for whatever you are cutting, and treat the spin-down as a habit rather than a hazard.
Check price on Amazon → (paid link)
Next: build accuracy into the cut with how to cut a straight line with a circular saw, learn the depth rules in how deep a circular saw cuts, square your layout with how to square cuts with a speed square, or start from the power tools and workshop hub.
