Is the space under stairs load-bearing?

The staircase stringers and the wall around them can be structural, so treat the framing as load-bearing until proven otherwise. Building drawers or shelves into the open triangular space is fine, but do not cut, notch, or remove any framing member, stringer, or a wall that might carry load without a professional assessment. Many under-stair walls are also fire-rated in attached garages or multi-family homes and are required by code to stay intact. When in doubt about whether a wall or member is structural, stop and consult a contractor or structural engineer before cutting anything.

How do I build pull-out drawers under stairs?

Build simple plywood boxes sized to the graduated openings, mount them on full-extension drawer slides fastened to a plywood or 2x carcass, and face them with fronts that follow the stair angle. Because each opening under a staircase is a different height, each drawer is a different size, so measure and build them one at a time rather than batching identical boxes. Use 3/4-inch plywood for the carcass and slides, and 1/2-inch for the drawer boxes to keep weight down while staying rigid.

What drawer slides should I use for under-stair storage?

Use full-extension, side-mount ball-bearing slides rated for the load you expect — 75 to 100 pounds per pair is common for storage drawers. Full extension matters here because the drawers are deep and you need to reach the very back of the under-stair wedge. Buy slides in the exact length your carcass depth allows, mount them dead level and parallel, and shim the carcass plumb first — slides bind if the box they mount to is out of square or racked.

Do I need a permit to build under-stair storage?

Building non-structural drawers, shelves, or a cabinet into the existing open space generally needs no permit, because you are adding furniture, not altering the structure. A permit and inspection come into play if you open up a closed under-stair wall, alter framing, add electrical for lighting, or the wall is a required fire separation. Check your local building department before removing any wall or cutting framing. The furniture-style build described here stays firmly in DIY, no-permit territory.

How much storage can you fit under a staircase?

A standard flight hides a surprising amount — a run of three to five graduated pull-out drawers can hold shoes, cleaning supplies, tools, or seasonal gear, often 15 to 25 cubic feet of usable space that was previously wasted. Pull-outs beat a single deep cupboard because they bring the back of the wedge to you instead of forcing you to crawl in. Combining a couple of tall drawers at the high end with shallow ones at the low end squeezes the most from the triangular shape.

How to Build Under-Stair Storage (Pull-Out Drawers)

Written & researched by Derek Holt Home & Appliances Editor

Updated August 2026

Three-quarter view of a person stacking plain unmarked storage bins on garage shelving, in soft overcast light

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Under-stair pull-out drawers convert wasted wedge space into serious storage, and it is a weekend intermediate build — as long as you touch no structure. Budget 150 to 350 dollars for plywood, slides, and hardware (2026) and expect to need a circular saw or track saw, a drill, and full-extension drawer slides. You build plywood boxes sized to the graduated openings, mount them on slides in a plywood carcass, and face them to follow the stair angle. The hard line: do not cut, notch, or remove any stringer, framing member, or wall that could be load-bearing or fire-rated — that crosses into permit-and-pro territory, so get a contractor to confirm before opening anything up.

How to Build Under Stair Storage Drawers

Tools and materials

Circular saw or track saw for the angled plywood cuts, and a drill/driver.
Level, square, and tape measure — every opening is a different size.
Materials: 3/4-inch plywood for the carcass and drawer fronts, 1/2-inch plywood for the drawer boxes, full-extension 75 to 100 pound slides, screws, glue, and drawer pulls. Line the finished drawers with storage bins to keep small items sorted, and see our closet organizer picks for the accessories that go inside.

Wide view of a person stacking plain unmarked storage bins on garage shelving, in bright midday sun

Step 1: Confirm nothing is structural

Before you build, identify the stringers and any wall around the under-stair space and confirm you are only adding furniture to the open cavity. Do not remove or cut framing, and check whether the wall is a required fire separation, which is common under stairs in attached garages. If anything is uncertain, get a contractor or structural engineer to confirm before proceeding.

Step 2: Measure the graduated openings

Measure the height, width, and depth available at each drawer position — they step down following the staircase, so each is unique. Sketch the drawer layout: often two or three tall drawers at the high end and shorter ones as the space narrows. Record each opening separately; there is no standard size here, and a mismeasured drawer wastes a whole sheet of plywood.

Low-angle view of a person stacking plain unmarked storage bins on garage shelving, in soft early-morning light

Step 3: Build the carcass

Construct a plywood carcass inside the opening to give the slides something square and plumb to mount to — you cannot mount slides reliably to angled or uneven framing. Level and shim the carcass so its drawer bays are plumb and square, checking diagonals. Anchor it to the floor and to solid framing without cutting into anything structural.

Step 4: Build and mount the drawers

Build each drawer box from 1/2-inch plywood, sized about 1 inch narrower than its opening to leave room for the slides. Mount full-extension slides dead level and parallel on both the box and the carcass, then test that each drawer rolls smoothly to full extension. Full extension is what lets you reach the back of the deep wedge.

Overhead view of a person stacking plain unmarked storage bins on garage shelving, in warm late-afternoon light

Step 5: Add the angled faces

Cut drawer fronts from 3/4-inch plywood to follow the stair angle, leaving consistent reveals between them. Attach the fronts to the boxes, adjust for even gaps, and install pulls. Prime and paint. The angled fronts are what make the run read as a built-in rather than a box of mismatched drawers.

Where to go next

Under-stair drawers pair with a shoe rack and drawer organizers inside, and a mudroom bench to finish an entry. Everything sits under the storage and organization hub.

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How to Build Under-Stair Storage