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Replacing a single cracked bathroom tile is a beginner-friendly repair of an hour or two of work plus cure time, and it costs only a few dollars if you have a spare matching tile. You break out the damaged tile, clear the bed, set a replacement flush, and grout to match. No permit or pro is needed for a one-tile swap. The two things to get right are breaking the old tile out from the center so you do not crack its neighbors, and setting the new one flush. If tiles keep cracking, the subfloor below is the real problem.
Step-by-step: swapping one tile
- Find a matching tile. Use a leftover from the original job, or take a piece to a tile shop to match size, color and finish as closely as possible before you start.
- Rake out the surrounding grout. Run a grout saw or oscillating tool with a grout blade around all four joints of the cracked tile to isolate it from its neighbors. Wear safety glasses.
- Break out the cracked tile from the center. Drill a few holes in the middle with a tile bit, or score an X and tap a cold chisel into the center to shatter it inward, then work pieces out from the middle toward the edges, keeping the chisel angled away from the good tiles.
- Clear the bed. Chisel and scrape all the old thinset off the substrate until the bed is flat and clean. A high spot will hold the new tile proud; a gouge will leave it low.
- Dry-fit the new tile. Set it in dry with spacers and confirm it sits flush with the surrounding tiles. Adjust the bed as needed.
- Set it in thinset. Butter thinset onto the bed and the back of the tile, press it in with a slight twist, and level it flush using the neighbors and a straightedge. Wipe thinset out of the joints.
- Let it cure. Leave the thinset to cure, typically 24 hours, before grouting or stepping on it.
- Grout and seal. Fill the joints with matched grout, sponge clean, let it cure, then seal cement grout. The repair blends closer as the new grout ages.

Tools and materials
You need a grout saw or oscillating multi-tool, a cold chisel and hammer or a tile bit for the drill, a putty knife and scraper, thinset, a matching replacement tile, tile spacers, matched grout, a grout float and sponge, safety glasses, and grout sealer. This repair sits alongside the other tile maintenance in this hub; if the grout around the whole area is tired, see our regrouting guide, and if you are diagnosing why tiles keep cracking, the substrate fundamentals in our bathroom floor tiling guide explain the deflection issues to look for.

Mistakes to avoid
- Prying from the edges. That cracks the neighbors. Break the bad tile from its center and work outward.
- Leaving old thinset in the bed. High spots hold the tile proud and it cracks again. Clear the bed flat.
- Not getting the tile flush. A proud tile is a stubbed toe and a crack waiting to happen. Level it to the neighbors.
- Ignoring repeat cracks. If a tile cracks again, the subfloor flexes. Fix the substrate, not just the tile.
- Grouting before the thinset cures. The tile shifts. Wait the full cure before grouting or walking on it.
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More from this hub: Bathroom · Regrouting tile · Tiling a bathroom floor · Resealing a shower · Best shower filters · How we rank