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How to Replace a Cracked Bathroom Tile

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Replacing a single cracked bathroom tile is a beginner-friendly repair of an hour or two of work plus cure time, and it costs only a few dollars if you have a spare matching tile. You break out the damaged tile, clear the bed, set a replacement flush, and grout to match. No permit or pro is needed for a one-tile swap. The two things to get right are breaking the old tile out from the center so you do not crack its neighbors, and setting the new one flush. If tiles keep cracking, the subfloor below is the real problem.

How to Replace a Cracked Floor Tile — Ask This Old House

Step-by-step: swapping one tile

  1. Find a matching tile. Use a leftover from the original job, or take a piece to a tile shop to match size, color and finish as closely as possible before you start.
  2. Rake out the surrounding grout. Run a grout saw or oscillating tool with a grout blade around all four joints of the cracked tile to isolate it from its neighbors. Wear safety glasses.
  3. Break out the cracked tile from the center. Drill a few holes in the middle with a tile bit, or score an X and tap a cold chisel into the center to shatter it inward, then work pieces out from the middle toward the edges, keeping the chisel angled away from the good tiles.
  4. Clear the bed. Chisel and scrape all the old thinset off the substrate until the bed is flat and clean. A high spot will hold the new tile proud; a gouge will leave it low.
  5. Dry-fit the new tile. Set it in dry with spacers and confirm it sits flush with the surrounding tiles. Adjust the bed as needed.
  6. Set it in thinset. Butter thinset onto the bed and the back of the tile, press it in with a slight twist, and level it flush using the neighbors and a straightedge. Wipe thinset out of the joints.
  7. Let it cure. Leave the thinset to cure, typically 24 hours, before grouting or stepping on it.
  8. Grout and seal. Fill the joints with matched grout, sponge clean, let it cure, then seal cement grout. The repair blends closer as the new grout ages.
Wide environmental view of a person's hands fitting a new shower head in a tiled bathroom, in soft overcast light

Tools and materials

You need a grout saw or oscillating multi-tool, a cold chisel and hammer or a tile bit for the drill, a putty knife and scraper, thinset, a matching replacement tile, tile spacers, matched grout, a grout float and sponge, safety glasses, and grout sealer. This repair sits alongside the other tile maintenance in this hub; if the grout around the whole area is tired, see our regrouting guide, and if you are diagnosing why tiles keep cracking, the substrate fundamentals in our bathroom floor tiling guide explain the deflection issues to look for.

Low-angle view of a person's hands fitting a new shower head in a tiled bathroom, in warm late-afternoon light

Mistakes to avoid

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More from this hub: Bathroom · Regrouting tile · Tiling a bathroom floor · Resealing a shower · Best shower filters · How we rank

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

Can you replace one cracked tile without removing the whole floor?

Yes, and it is a standard repair. You rake out the grout around the damaged tile, break the cracked tile out from the center working outward so you do not disturb its neighbors, clear the old thinset from the bed, and set a replacement tile in fresh thinset flush with the surrounding tiles. Then you grout the joints to match. The whole job affects only the one tile and its grout lines. The main risks are cracking an adjacent tile while breaking out the bad one and not getting the new tile flush, both of which careful technique avoids.

How do you remove a cracked tile without damaging the surrounding ones?

Rake out the grout around the tile first so the neighbors are isolated, then attack the center of the bad tile, not the edges. Drill a few holes in the middle with a tile bit, or score an X across it and tap a cold chisel into the center to shatter it inward, then work the pieces out from the middle toward the edges. Keep the chisel angled away from the good tiles. Removing from the center outward relieves the tile inward so you are never prying against a neighbor, which is exactly how a good tile cracks the ones next to it.

What kind of adhesive do you use to set a replacement tile?

Use thinset mortar for a proper, lasting bond, the same material the original tile was set in. For a single small tile you can buy a small bag or a premixed thinset. On a floor especially, thinset gives the strength and full support the tile needs. Some people use a tile mastic (premixed adhesive) for a single wall tile in a dry area, but on a floor or in a wet area, thinset is the right choice. Butter the back of the new tile and the bed lightly so the tile sits fully supported with no hollow voids that would crack it again.

How do you match the grout color on a repair?

Take a chip of the old grout, or a photo, to the store and compare against grout samples, and buy the closest sanded or unsanded match for your joint width. Even a good match often looks slightly different because the surrounding grout has aged, darkened and picked up staining, so the fresh grout can appear lighter at first. It usually blends closer over a few weeks as the new grout ages, and cleaning the old grout beforehand helps them meet in the middle. If an exact match is impossible, a grout colorant applied to the whole area can unify it.

Why do bathroom tiles crack in the first place?

Most single cracks come from an impact, a dropped heavy object, but a tile that cracks with no obvious blow usually points to a problem underneath: a flexing or deflecting subfloor, a void where the thinset did not fully bond (a hollow tile), or movement at a spot that should have been a caulked expansion joint. If several tiles crack, or the same tile cracks again after replacement, the substrate is the real culprit and needs addressing, not just the tile. A one-off crack from a dropped bottle is simply bad luck and a straightforward swap.