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How to Clean a Mattress

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The short answer: to clean a mattress, strip the bedding, vacuum the whole surface with an upholstery tool, spot-treat stains with an enzyme cleaner matched to the stain, then sprinkle baking soda over everything, leave it several hours to absorb odors and moisture, and vacuum it off. The one rule that matters most: never over-wet a mattress — the interior holds water and grows mold, so use minimal liquid and let it dry fully before remaking the bed. Do a deep clean every three to six months and spot-clean spills the moment they happen.

A mattress collects dead skin, dust mites, sweat, and the occasional spill, and you spend a third of your life on it, so it is worth doing right. Below is the full method plus stain-specific fixes for urine, blood, and sweat. We do not test the cleaning products we mention; picks come from aggregated owner reviews and expert consensus, explained in how we rank.

What you need

ItemPurpose
Vacuum with upholstery attachmentRemoves dust, dead skin, and dust mites
Baking sodaAbsorbs odors and residual moisture
Enzyme cleanerBreaks down protein stains: urine, blood, sweat
Hydrogen peroxide (3%) and dish soapFor set-in stains on light mattresses
Clean white clothsBlotting without transferring dye
Spray bottleControlled application of cleaner
FanSpeeds drying — critical to prevent mold

Use white cloths so dye does not transfer, and keep liquids to a minimum throughout.

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The step-by-step deep clean

  1. Strip and wash the bedding on the hottest cycle the fabric allows to kill dust mites and bacteria. See how to wash bedding for temperatures.
  2. Vacuum the entire mattress — top, sides, and seams — with the upholstery attachment, working slowly to pull out dust, dead skin, and mites. Get into the piping and any tufted buttons.
  3. Spot-treat stains now, before deodorizing, using the stain-specific method below. Blot, never rub.
  4. Deodorize with baking soda. Sift a generous, even layer over the whole surface, gently rub it in, and leave it at least a few hours — overnight is better. It draws out odors and lingering moisture.
  5. Vacuum the baking soda off completely.
  6. Air and dry. Open windows, run a fan, and let the mattress dry fully. Flip and repeat on the other side if it is a double-sided model.

Stain-specific treatments

Different stains need different chemistry. Protein stains — urine, blood, sweat, vomit — respond to enzymes, not soap. Always blot up fresh liquid first and work from the outside of the stain inward.

StainBest treatmentNotes
UrineEnzyme cleaner, 10 to 15 min, then blotEnzymes break down the odor compounds, not just the color
BloodCold water and enzyme cleaner or hydrogen peroxideNever use hot water — it sets blood permanently
Sweat / yellowingBaking soda, peroxide, and dish soap pasteTest on a hidden area; peroxide can lighten fabric
VomitEnzyme cleaner after removing solidsDeodorize with baking soda afterward
General / drink spillsMild dish soap in water, blottedExtract with a damp cloth, keep it minimal

For the light-mattress paste, mix a few tablespoons of baking soda with a small amount of 3% hydrogen peroxide and a drop of dish soap, apply to the stain, let it dry, then brush and vacuum off. Peroxide can bleach, so test a hidden spot first. The same enzyme approach carries over to bedding — see our laundry stain removal guide.

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The one mistake to avoid: over-wetting

The single biggest error people make is soaking the mattress. Unlike a hard surface, a mattress traps liquid deep in its foam or padding where it cannot evaporate, and that trapped moisture grows mold and mildew inside the mattress within days — a far worse problem than the stain you started with. Every wet step should use the least liquid that works, followed by blotting and extraction.

If you use a portable upholstery or carpet spot machine to lift a stain, that caution matters even more: extract thoroughly, then dry with a fan and open windows for many hours before remaking the bed. Never use a full-size deep-cleaning carpet machine on a mattress. For heavier upholstered spills elsewhere, our best upholstery cleaner machine roundup covers the portable options that are safe for spot work.

Tackle dust mites and allergens

Mattresses are a primary reservoir for dust mites, which feed on dead skin and trigger allergies and asthma in sensitive people. Vacuuming removes many, but a few habits reduce the population between deep cleans: wash bedding weekly on hot, keep bedroom humidity low since mites need humidity to thrive, and let sunlight and fresh air reach the mattress when you can, as UV helps.

The most effective single measure is an allergen-barrier or washable mattress protector, which physically blocks mites from colonizing the mattress and can be laundered. Our best mattress protector and best waterproof mattress protector roundups cover both, and whether they trap heat is addressed in do mattress protectors make you sweat.

Cleaning by mattress type

The cautions shift a little depending on what your mattress is made of, and getting this wrong is how people damage an expensive bed.

Mattress typeKey caution
Memory foamMost moisture-sensitive of all; use the least liquid possible and dry for many hours with a fan, since foam holds water deep inside and grows mold readily
Innerspring / hybridMore forgiving of airflow but the padded top still traps moisture; vacuum the sides and seams where dust collects around the coils
LatexNaturally more resistant to dust mites and mold, but still spot-clean only and never soak
Pillow-topThe thick top layer holds liquid; blot aggressively and extend drying time

Across every type the rules are the same in spirit: vacuum, spot-treat, deodorize with baking soda, and dry completely. Foam simply punishes mistakes fastest. If you are unsure how old your mattress is or whether it is worth deep-cleaning at all, our bedding hub covers lifespan in how long does a mattress last.

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If you find mold or heavy mildew

A mattress that has been stored damp, sat on a floor without airflow, or absorbed a large untreated spill can grow mold, which shows as musty odor and dark or fuzzy patches. Surface mold on a mattress is genuinely hard to remove because it roots into the padding, and health authorities generally advise that heavily mold-infested soft furnishings often cannot be salvaged. For light surface spotting, take the mattress outdoors if possible, brush off loose growth wearing a mask and gloves, treat the area with a cloth dampened in a diluted rubbing alcohol or a mild disinfectant solution suited to the fabric, then dry it thoroughly in sunlight and airflow. If the mold is extensive, has penetrated the mattress, or keeps returning, replacement is the safer choice. Prevent it by never sealing a damp mattress in plastic and ensuring the bed frame allows airflow underneath. The bathroom version of tackling mold is covered in how to remove mold from the bathroom.

Prevent the mess in the first place

Cleaning is easier if less reaches the mattress. The three preventive steps that matter most:

How often and final notes

Deep clean every three to six months, spot-clean spills immediately, and time it with your mattress rotation so it becomes one routine. With a protector in place, the mattress itself needs deep cleaning far less often. Whatever you do, dry it completely before the sheets go back on — a made bed over a damp mattress is how mold starts.

For the rest of your cleaning cadence see our weekly cleaning schedule, and browse everything at the cleaning and laundry hub. When it is time to replace the mattress rather than clean it, our bedding hub covers that in how often to replace a mattress.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

How do you deep clean a mattress?

Strip and wash the bedding on hot, then vacuum the entire mattress surface and sides with an upholstery attachment to remove dust and dead skin. Spot-treat any stains with the right cleaner for the stain type, sprinkle baking soda generously over the whole surface and leave it several hours or overnight to absorb odors and moisture, then vacuum it all off. Let the mattress air out and dry fully before remaking the bed. Do this every few months, and always let any wet treatment dry completely to prevent mold.

How do you get urine or sweat stains out of a mattress?

Use an enzyme-based cleaner, which breaks down the proteins in urine, sweat, and blood rather than just masking them. Blot up any fresh liquid first, never rub, then spray or dab the enzyme cleaner onto the stain, let it sit 10 to 15 minutes, and blot with a clean damp cloth. For older set-in stains, a paste of baking soda and a little hydrogen peroxide and dish soap works on light-colored mattresses, but test it on a hidden spot first. Dry thoroughly afterward, because trapped moisture causes mold and worse odors.

Can you use a carpet or upholstery cleaner machine on a mattress?

Yes for spot-cleaning, with caution about moisture. A portable upholstery cleaner or carpet spot machine can lift stains from the surface, but the biggest risk with any mattress is over-wetting, because the interior foam or padding holds water and grows mold. Use the minimum liquid, extract as much as possible, and then let the mattress dry for many hours with a fan and airflow before remaking. Never soak a mattress or use a full-size deep-cleaning carpet machine that saturates it.

How do you get rid of mattress odor?

Baking soda is the standard fix. Sprinkle a generous, even layer over the entire mattress, gently rub it in, and leave it at least a few hours or overnight so it can absorb odors and residual moisture, then vacuum it off completely. For stronger smells, mix a few drops of essential oil into the baking soda first, or air the mattress outdoors in sunlight if you can, since UV and fresh air neutralize odors. Addressing the source, usually sweat and moisture, with a washable protector prevents it recurring.

How often should you clean a mattress?

Deep clean a mattress every three to six months, and spot-clean spills immediately. Wash your sheets weekly and rotate the mattress every three to six months at the same time to even out wear. A washable mattress protector is the single best preventive step, because it takes the sweat, spills, and dead skin that would otherwise reach the mattress and can go straight in the laundry. With a protector, the mattress itself needs far less frequent deep cleaning.