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What Is the Difference Between Compost and Topsoil?

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Three-quarter view of a person turning dark crumbly compost with a garden fork beside a compost bin, in soft early-morning light

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Compost is decomposed organic matter — typically 30 to 70 percent organic content. Topsoil is the mineral surface layer of actual soil, usually 2 to 10 percent organic matter with the rest sand, silt and clay. Topsoil is what you fill and build with; compost is what you amend it with. Compost supplies nutrients, biology and water-holding capacity but slumps and shrinks on its own. Topsoil supplies structure and mineral content but is often nutritionally poor. Almost every garden problem is solved by mixing them, not by choosing between them.

We never buy, test or physically handle the products we rank; recommendations come from aggregated owner reviews and expert consensus, described in how we rank. More at the composting and soil hub.

How do they compare directly?

CompostTopsoil
What it isDecomposed organic materialMineral soil from the upper horizon
Organic matter30–70%2–10%
Approx. weight per cubic yard800–1,200 lb2,000–2,700 lb
Nutrient contentModerate and slow-releaseLow and variable
Water holdingHighDepends on texture
Stability over a seasonShrinks 20–30% as it continues to break downStable
Typical bulk price per cubic yard$30–$70$20–$60
Use it forAmending, topdressing, mulching, mix componentFilling, leveling, the bulk of a new bed

The weight difference is worth noting before you order: a cubic yard of topsoil is over a ton and will not fit in a half-ton pickup, while a cubic yard of compost usually will.

Wide view of a person turning dark crumbly compost with a garden fork beside a compost bin, in soft early-morning light

Which one do you need for the job in front of you?

Close-up detail of the material being worked in a composting & soil project, in warm late-afternoon light

How do you judge quality before you buy?

Good topsoil is dark, crumbly and slightly damp, holds together when squeezed and breaks apart when poked. Reject anything that smells sour, arrives as hard clay clods, contains construction debris or trash, or is full of visible weed rhizomes such as bindweed or quackgrass — you are buying a decade of weeding. Ask the supplier where it came from; screened stripped topsoil from a development site is common and its quality depends entirely on the site.

Good compost smells earthy, not sour or ammoniacal, is dark and uniform, and contains no recognizable feedstock. Ask whether it is cured and whether the supplier tests it. Compost sold under the US Composting Council's Seal of Testing Assurance comes with a published analysis including pH, soluble salts, maturity and stability — the only easy way to compare products on evidence rather than appearance. High soluble salts are the most common problem in cheap bulk compost, particularly manure-based products.

Three-quarter view of a person turning dark crumbly compost with a garden fork beside a compost bin, in warm late-afternoon light

The mistake people make most

Filling a whole raised bed with pure compost because it looks so good. The first season goes reasonably well; then the bed drops by a quarter to a third in volume, watering becomes unpredictable because the mix either sheds water when dry or waterlogs when wet, and nutrient levels swing as the material finishes decomposing. Compost is an amendment. It performs best at 25 to 40 percent of a mix, and it needs a mineral fraction underneath it doing the structural work.

If you are amending because your native soil is heavy, the specific approach matters — see how to improve clay soil. Before buying anything, a soil test tells you what is actually missing; the cost is in how much a lab soil test costs and interpretation in how to read a soil test.

Making your own compost is cheaper than buying it by a wide margin — start at how to make compost, judge readiness with how you know when compost is finished, and compare systems in best compost bin.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

Can you plant directly in compost?

You can, and most plants will struggle. Pure compost holds too much water and too little air, shrinks and slumps as it continues to decompose, and often carries soluble salt levels that burn seedling roots. It also has no mineral fraction, so it cannot hold structure or anchor larger plants. A blend of 25 to 30 percent compost with 70 to 75 percent soil or a soil-based mix grows far better than either component alone.

Is bagged topsoil any good?

Quality varies enormously, because in most US states topsoil is not a regulated product term — a bag can legally contain screened subsoil, dredged sediment or sand with a little organic matter blended in. Read the analysis if there is one, and buy by weight and feel where you can. For anything more than a few bags, bulk topsoil from a local landscape supplier is cheaper per cubic yard and usually better material.

Which is better for filling a raised bed?

Neither alone. The standard blend for a raised bed is roughly 50 to 60 percent good topsoil, 30 to 40 percent compost and 10 percent aeration material such as coarse sand, perlite or bark fines. Straight topsoil compacts in a bed with no traffic to break it up; straight compost slumps by a third in the first season. Buy the topsoil as the bulk and the compost as the amendment.

How much does a cubic yard of each cost?

As of July 2026, bulk topsoil typically runs $20 to $60 a cubic yard from a landscape supplier and bulk compost $30 to $70, plus a delivery fee of $50 to $125 that often applies regardless of quantity. Bagged material is three to six times more expensive per cubic foot, so bulk pays off from about two cubic yards up. A cubic yard covers roughly 100 square feet at 3 inches deep.

What is the difference between compost and manure?

Manure is one possible feedstock; compost is the process. Composted manure has been through thermophilic decomposition, so the pathogens and weed seeds are largely gone and the nitrogen is stabilized. Fresh or aged-but-uncomposted manure can burn plants with ammonia and salts and can carry E. coli, which is why food-safety guidance calls for long intervals between raw manure application and harvest. Buy composted, or compost it yourself.