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Thawing a frozen pipe is a DIY task if you can reach the frozen section — the key rules are to open the faucet, warm the pipe slowly from the faucet end back toward the ice, and never use an open flame. A hair dryer, heat lamp, space heater, heating pad or hot towels all work. Before anything, find your main water shut-off, because if the ice has already cracked the pipe it will flood when it thaws. Call a plumber if the frozen run is inside a wall, if the pipe has burst, or if you cannot locate it.
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Step 1: Find your main shut-off first
Before applying any heat, locate the main water shut-off for the house — usually where the supply enters, in a basement, crawl space, utility closet, or garage. A pipe cracked by ice will not leak while frozen; it floods the instant it thaws. Knowing where to shut the water off in seconds is your safety net. Keep a bucket and towels handy.

Tools and materials
- A hair dryer, heat lamp, portable space heater (kept clear of flammables), or an electric heating pad.
- Towels for hot-water wraps, and a bucket.
- Never a blow torch or any open flame.
- Pipe insulation and heat tape for prevention afterward. Reference: best plumbing tools.
Step 2: Locate the frozen section and open the faucet
Find the fixture with no flow, then trace its supply line back to the coldest, least-insulated run — an exterior wall, crawl space, or under-sink line on an outside wall. Frost or a visible bulge marks the spot. Open both the hot and cold handles on the affected faucet to relieve pressure and give melting water an exit; the returning trickle will show your progress.

Step 3: Apply gentle heat from the faucet end back
Start warming the pipe at the faucet end and work back toward the frozen blockage — never start in the middle, which can trap expanding steam between two ice plugs and burst the pipe. Move a hair dryer back and forth along the pipe, wrap it in hot-water-soaked towels, position a heat lamp or space heater a safe distance away, or wrap an electric heating pad around it. Keep any heater well clear of anything flammable and never leave it unattended.
Step 4: Watch for full flow
As the ice melts, the trickle at the faucet grows to a steady stream. Keep applying heat until full flow returns to both hot and cold. Then check the thawed section and everything downstream carefully for any leak or drip — the ice may have cracked the pipe, and the damage shows only once water moves through it again.

Step 5: Prevent the next freeze
Once thawed, protect the vulnerable run: wrap it with foam pipe insulation or apply UL-listed heat tape, seal drafts near the pipe, and in a hard freeze let a faucet on an exposed line drip overnight and open cabinet doors to let warm air reach under-sink pipes. Before winter, shut off and drain outdoor hose bibs.
Common mistakes
- Using a blow torch or open flame, a fire and injury hazard that can crack the pipe.
- Heating from the middle of the frozen run, trapping pressure and risking a burst.
- Not opening the faucet first, so pressure has nowhere to escape.
- Not knowing where the main shut-off is if the pipe turns out to be cracked.
When to call a plumber
Call a plumber if the frozen section is inside a wall or otherwise unreachable, if the pipe has already burst or you see any leak once it thaws, if it will not thaw with safe heat, or if you are not confident locating and using your main shut-off. A suspected burst is a stop-and-call situation: keep the main off and have it inspected before restoring pressure. Repairs inside finished walls are plumber work and are not permit-exempt in every area.
Related: at what temperature pipes freeze, how long a pipe can stay frozen before it bursts, and how to replace a water shut-off valve.