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Wiring a three-way switch is an intermediate DIY job — plan on 20 to 40 minutes per switch, a few dollars for the switch, and no permit for a like-for-like replacement. A three-way lets two switches control one light, using a common terminal and two travelers. The entire trick is identifying and preserving the common (the odd, dark screw). Cut the breaker, verify the wires are dead, and label the common wire before you disconnect anything. Anything at the service panel is a licensed electrician's job.
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Tools and materials
- Non-contact voltage tester, screwdrivers, and wire strippers.
- Electrical tape or wire labels — labeling the common is the most important step.
- Two three-way switches (replace both together for consistency), or a three-way dimmer plus a companion — see our best dimmer switch picks for compatible three-way models.
- A phone camera to photograph the existing wiring at each box.

Step 1: Understand the layout
A three-way circuit has two switches and one light. Power enters at one switch's common, two travelers run between the switches, and the second switch's common feeds the light. The neutral runs straight through to the light and does not connect to the switches (except to power a smart switch). Knowing this map makes the wiring obvious rather than mysterious.
Step 2: Cut the power and verify dead
Switch off the breaker for the circuit and confirm both switch boxes are dead with the voltage tester before touching wires. Three-way circuits can have voltage present on travelers depending on switch position, so verify at both boxes.

Step 3: Label the common before disconnecting
At the first switch, find the wire on the common (dark or COMMON-labeled) screw and wrap a piece of tape around it. The other two wires are travelers — leave them unmarked. This one label is what keeps the job simple; without it you are guessing which of three wires is the common.
Step 4: Connect the new switch
Land the taped common wire on the new switch's common (dark) screw. Connect the two travelers to the two traveler (brass) terminals — order does not matter between them. Connect the bare or green ground to the green grounding screw. Hook each wire clockwise around its screw and tighten firmly, or use the switch's terminals per its instructions. Repeat at the second switch, again landing its common on the common screw.

Step 5: Mount, power, and test
Fold the wires into the boxes, mount both switches, and add cover plates. Restore power and test the true three-way behavior: the light should turn on and off from either switch, in any combination of positions. If it only works from one switch when the other is set a certain way, a traveler and common got swapped — kill power and recheck the common connections.
Common mistakes
- Not labeling the common. The single biggest cause of a miswired three-way. Tape it first.
- Swapping a traveler onto the common screw. Produces the works-only-sometimes symptom.
- Installing a single-pole switch or dimmer. A three-way circuit needs three-way devices.
- Forgetting the ground. Land it on the green screw at both boxes.
- Not verifying dead at both boxes. Travelers can carry voltage.
When to call an electrician
Bring in a licensed electrician if the wiring does not match the three-way pattern (extra cables, unclear commons), if you find aluminum wiring, if a box has no ground, or if the work reaches the panel — permit-and-pro territory, jurisdiction-specific, never DIY at the service panel. Replacing three-way switches on sound existing wiring, with the common labeled, is a homeowner job.
Related reading: how to replace a light switch, how to install a dimmer switch, and how to install a smart light switch.