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Scrape the cover out first with a 5-in-1 tool, then rinse latex under warm running water until it runs completely clear, spin the water out, and stand the cover on its end to dry. That is the whole job for water-based paint and it takes about five minutes if you do it immediately. Oil-based paint needs a mineral spirits wash in stages, followed by soap and water. If you are coming back tomorrow with the same paint, do not wash it at all — wrap it airtight and refrigerate it.
Step-by-step: latex
- Roll it out first. Before any water, roll the cover out on the tray and then on a scrap of cardboard until it stops giving up paint. Every ounce you recover here is an ounce you do not have to rinse down a sink.
- Scrape the cover, 30 seconds. Run the curved edge of a 5-in-1 painters tool or a putty knife down the length of the cover, over the paint can, rotating as you go. This squeezes out most of the paint held in the nap and is the highest-yield step by a wide margin.
- Slide the cover off the frame. Clean them separately. Paint dries in the frame cage and turns a smooth roller into a lumpy one.
- Rinse under warm water, 2 to 4 minutes. Warm, not hot. Work the nap with your fingers, turning the cover constantly, and keep going past the point where you think it is clean — the water should run genuinely clear, not merely pale. Paint left deep in the nap dries hard and stiffens the cover.
- Add a little dish soap for the last pass. A drop of dish soap worked through and rinsed out lifts the residual binder that plain water leaves. Rinse until there are no suds.
- Spin it dry. A roller spinner tool does this in seconds. Without one, roll the cover hard along a dry section of drop cloth or the inside of a bucket, then flick it. Water left in the nap dilutes the first paint you load next time and causes streaking.
- Dry standing on end. Stand the cover vertically or hang it from the frame. Drying flat mats one side of the nap and that flat spot leaves a track on the wall for the rest of the cover's life.
- Clean the frame and tray. Wipe the frame cage and the handle before paint dries in it. A disposable tray liner saves the tray entirely; a bare tray with dried latex can usually be peeled clean once the paint has fully hardened.

Oil-based paint
Same scrape first, then work the cover in a container of mineral spirits until the bulk of the paint releases, move to a second container of cleaner spirits for a final pass, then wash with warm soapy water and rinse to remove solvent residue. Do this outdoors or with real ventilation and no ignition sources. Handling the waste properly matters: let used spirits stand in a sealed jar for a few days, decant the clear solvent off the settled sludge for reuse, and take the sludge to a household hazardous waste facility. Never pour solvent down a drain. Spread solvent-soaked rags flat to dry outdoors or seal them in a metal container, because a heap of oil-finish rags is a documented spontaneous combustion risk.

Between coats and overnight
| Break | Do this | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Under 2 hours | Leave loaded, cover the tray with plastic | Keep it out of sun and draft |
| Overnight | Wrap the cover airtight in plastic wrap or a bag | Squeeze all air out |
| 2–5 days | Wrap airtight and refrigerate | Warm up 20–30 min before use |
| Longer, or a color change | Wash properly | Any residual color will contaminate |
Bring a refrigerated roller back to room temperature before you use it. Cold paint and a cold nap drag on the wall and leave a stippled texture that shows under raking light.

Mistakes to avoid
- Skipping the scrape. You end up rinsing several ounces of paint down a drain and it takes four times as long.
- Hot water on latex. Warm is right; very hot water can set some resins into the nap.
- Stopping when the water looks lighter. Rinse to genuinely clear or the cover dries stiff.
- Drying flat. Mats the nap on one side and creates a permanent track mark. Stand it on end.
- Leaving the cover on the frame. Paint hardens in the cage and the roller never runs true again.
- Rinsing solvent-cleaned covers in a sink. Do oil-based cleanup in containers and dispose of waste properly.
- Trying to save a matted economy cover. A shedding, hardened cover will ruin a wall that cost you a weekend. Bin it.
When a cover is worth saving
Judge by feel. A quality woven microfiber or lambswool cover that is still springy, even along its length and free of hard ends will roll as well as new and is worth cleaning many times over. A cover that has matted, hardened at the ends or lost nap is finished, and using it costs you a redo. Cheap economy covers rarely survive a second clean well, which is why buying a better cover is the cheapest improvement available to most DIY painters — owner reviews consistently separate covers on shedding and finish quality rather than price. Our paint roller picks weigh nap quality and shedding, and foam vs microfiber covers which nap suits your surface. If you are cleaning spray equipment as well, see cleaning an airless paint sprayer.
We never buy, test or physically handle the products we rank. Recommendations come from aggregated owner reviews, star ratings, review volume and expert consensus — see how we rank.
More from this hub: Paint & Walls · Foam vs microfiber rollers · How to paint a room · Cleaning an airless sprayer · Best paint rollers · How we rank
