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Plant one seed potato per 5 gallons of bag volume: one in a 5-gallon bag, two in a 10-gallon, three in a 15-gallon and four in a 20-gallon. That works out to roughly 6 to 8 inches between seed pieces, matching the in-row spacing extension services give for open-ground potatoes. Crowding beyond that does not increase total yield — it converts the same harvest into more, smaller tubers and drives the bag into drought stress during tuber bulking. Expect about 2 to 3 pounds of potatoes per seed piece planted.
How many per bag size?
Bag volumes are approximate between brands, so cross-check the stated diameter. These figures assume a fabric bag filled to within a couple of inches of the rim by the end of hilling.
| Bag size | Typical diameter | Seed pieces | Expected yield |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 gal | 12 in | 1 | 2–3 lb |
| 7 gal | 14 in | 1–2 | 3–5 lb |
| 10 gal | 16 in | 2 | 4–6 lb |
| 15 gal | 18 in | 3 | 6–9 lb |
| 20 gal | 20 in | 4 | 8–12 lb |
| 30 gal | 24 in | 5–6 | 10–18 lb |

Why not just plant more per bag?
Because potato yield in a container is limited by water and root volume long before it is limited by the number of stems. Two seed pieces in a 10-gallon bag already push a mature canopy that transpires heavily; four in the same bag double the demand on an unchanged water reserve, and the bag hits wilting point every hot afternoon. Tuber bulking — the three to four weeks after flowering when the crop actually forms — is the stage most sensitive to inconsistent moisture, and it is also when a crowded bag is least able to keep up. The result is a heap of marble-sized potatoes rather than a bigger harvest.

How do you fill and hill the bag?
This is where container potatoes are won or lost, because tubers form on stolons off the buried portion of the stem, above the seed piece. More buried stem means more places to make tubers.
- Roll the bag down and put 4 to 6 inches of moist potting mix in the bottom.
- Set the seed pieces cut-side down, eyes up, evenly spaced. Cover with 3 inches of mix.
- When shoots reach 6 to 8 inches, add mix to bury the lower half of the stems, unrolling the bag as you go.
- Repeat every 2 to 3 weeks until the mix is 2 inches below the rim, usually three or four rounds total.
- Stop hilling once the plants flower, and keep the moisture steady from then until the foliage yellows.
Any tuber that pushes to the surface and sees light turns green and develops solanine. The USDA and extension food-safety guidance is straightforward: cut away green portions, and discard tubers that are green throughout. Keeping them covered is easier than sorting them later.

When do you plant and harvest?
Plant two to four weeks before your last spring frost date, or once the mix holds around 45 to 50 F. Bags have an advantage here — the mix warms faster than open ground and you can move a bag under cover if a late freeze threatens. Early varieties are ready roughly 70 to 90 days after planting, maincrop varieties 100 to 130. For new potatoes, dig in gently two to three weeks after flowering; for storage potatoes, wait until the foliage has died back, then stop watering for 10 to 14 days so the skins set before you tip the bag out.
The bottom line
One seed piece per 5 gallons, cut to 1.5 to 2 ounces with two eyes each, cured for two days, hilled three or four times, and watered without interruption through bulking. That combination reliably returns 2 to 3 pounds per piece. For the method end to end see can you grow potatoes in a grow bag, and for the mix see what to fill grow bags with. Our best grow bags roundup covers which bags hold up to repeated filling and tipping.
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