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Usually not on the bottom. Lining the floor of a ground-level raised bed with landscape fabric blocks what makes it work — roots growing down into the soil below for extra depth, water and nutrients — and over time the fabric can impede drainage and clog with roots and fines. For weeds, plain cardboard smothers grass and then breaks down, letting roots through afterward; against burrowing rodents, use hardware cloth, which stops animals but not roots. Where lining does help is the inside faces of a wooden bed's walls, to slow the wood from rotting. Match the material to the job.
Why not line the bottom?
A ground-level raised bed's biggest advantage is that it is open to the earth beneath it. Roots that reach the bottom of the frame keep going into the native soil, drawing water and nutrients and giving plants a far larger effective root zone than the frame's depth suggests — a 12-inch bed can behave like a 24-inch one. A landscape-fabric floor throws that away by separating the bed from the ground. Worse, over a few seasons fabric tends to clog with fine roots and settled soil, so it starts impeding drainage exactly where you least want a barrier. The weed benefit it offers below is modest and temporary, since windblown seed sprouts in the bed's own soil regardless. For the bed floor, the costs outweigh the benefit.

What to put on the bottom instead
Match the material to what you are actually trying to solve.
| Goal | Best material | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Smother existing grass/weeds | Plain cardboard | Blocks light, then decomposes; roots pass through after |
| Stop burrowing rodents (voles, gophers) | Hardware cloth (wire mesh) | Blocks animals but lets roots and water through |
| Protect wooden walls from rot | Plastic / pond liner on sides only | Keeps wet soil off the wood, extends bed life |
| Preserve rooting and drainage | Nothing / loosened soil | Open bottom is the whole point on soil |

Cardboard for weeds, hardware cloth for critters
Two cheap materials cover the real problems a bottom liner is meant to solve, without blocking roots. Plain cardboard laid over the grass before filling smothers the lawn by cutting off light, then rots away within a season — after which roots grow straight down into the earth. Remove tape and heavy glossy print, and overlap the sheets so grass cannot sneak through gaps. If burrowing rodents are a genuine problem in your area, staple galvanized hardware cloth across the bottom of the frame before filling; the wire mesh stops voles and gophers coming up from below while letting roots and water pass. Cardboard and hardware cloth can be combined — cardboard on top of the mesh — to handle weeds and critters at once.

The one place lining helps: wooden walls
Lining is genuinely useful in one spot — the inside faces of a wooden bed's walls. Constant contact with wet soil is what rots wood, so a barrier of heavy plastic or pond-liner-grade material stapled to the side walls (above the soil line, sides only) keeps moisture off the boards and can add years to the bed's life. Crucially, this leaves the bottom open, so drainage and rooting are untouched. It is the inverse of the common mistake: line the sides to protect the wood, leave the bottom bare to protect the plants. Metal beds do not need this, and beds on hard surfaces are a separate case with their own drainage rules.
The bottom line
Skip landscape fabric on the bottom of a soil-based bed — use cardboard to smother grass, hardware cloth against burrowers, and wall liner only to protect wooden sides. Keep landscape fabric for the paths around your beds instead. What actually goes inside matters more than what lines it — see what to fill a raised bed with and how deep it should be. For a bed on a hard surface where the bottom rules differ, see raised bed on concrete.
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More from this hub: Raised Beds & Planters · What to fill a raised bed with · Raised bed depth · Raised bed on concrete · How we rank
