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What to Plant in Fall

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Overhead view of a person harvesting ripe tomatoes into a basket in a backyard vegetable garden, in bright midday sun

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What to plant in fall is cool-season crops that mature in cooling weather and often sweeten after frost — kale, spinach, lettuce, radishes, carrots, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and Swiss chard — plus garlic planted for next summer. Most are sown in mid to late summer so they finish before hard frost, with timing set by counting back from your first fall frost. This guide gives the count-back method, zone-by-zone windows, soil temperatures in °F, and days to maturity for a productive autumn garden.

We do not test or physically handle the plants and products we cover; our guidance draws on horticultural extension research and the aggregated experience in thousands of owner reviews, as explained in how we rank.

The count-back method for fall timing

Fall timing runs in reverse of spring: instead of counting forward from the last frost, you count backward from your first fall frost. Because days shorten and growth slows in autumn, add a buffer.

  1. Find your average first fall frost date.
  2. Take the crop's days to maturity from the seed packet.
  3. Add about 14 days as a "fall factor" for slowing growth.
  4. Count back from the frost date for your latest safe sowing date.

A 60-day broccoli with a first frost of October 15 should be started by about August 1. Hardy crops can be pushed later because they keep growing slowly and survive past frost. The same logic underpins the whole vegetable planting calendar.

The reason for the two-week "fall factor" is worth understanding, because it catches out gardeners who plant strictly by the packet. In spring, a crop grows into lengthening days and warming soil, so it often beats its listed maturity. In fall it grows into shortening days and cooling soil, so the same variety slows down measurably in its final weeks and can take considerably longer than the catalog claims. Once daylight drops below about ten hours a day, growth nearly stalls for many crops — a threshold sometimes called the "Persephone period." Anything you want at full size must reach it before that slowdown, which is why the fall garden really has to be planned and sown while it still feels like summer. Getting seed in the ground even a week late in fall can be the difference between a full head of cabbage and a loose, undersized one.

Golden-hour view of a person harvesting ripe tomatoes into a basket in a backyard vegetable garden

Frost-hardy crops that sweeten in the cold

These are the stars of fall gardening — cold improves them as plants convert starches to sugar.

CropDays to maturityCold hardiness
Kale50 to 65Hard frost, into low 20s°F
Spinach40 to 50Hard frost; overwinters with cover
Carrots60 to 80Hard frost; sweeten dramatically
Brussels sprouts90 to 110Hard frost; best after frost
Collards, leeks55 to 120Hard frost

Semi-hardy crops for early fall

These take a light frost but not a hard freeze, so they suit early-fall harvests and warmer zones.

Over-the-shoulder view of a person harvesting ripe tomatoes into a basket in a backyard vegetable garden, in warm late-afternoon light

Fast crops for a late sowing

If summer got away from you, these mature quickly enough to sow in late summer or early fall.

CropReady inNotes
Radishes25 to 30 daysThe fastest fall crop
Arugula30 to 40 daysCut-and-come-again
Leaf lettuce30 to 45 daysHarvest outer leaves
Spinach40 to 50 daysOverwinters with protection
Baby turnips35 to 50 daysRoots and greens both usable

Garlic and overwintering crops

Some fall plantings are not for fall harvest at all — they overwinter for the following season. Garlic is the classic: plant cloves from September to November, after the first light frosts but before the ground freezes, for harvest the next summer. It needs a cold period to form good bulbs. Onions and shallots overwinter in mild zones, and cover crops like crimson clover or winter rye sown in fall protect and enrich beds through winter. Mulch the garlic bed after planting to steady the soil temperature through freeze-thaw cycles.

Cover crops deserve more attention than they usually get from home gardeners. Any bed you do not intend to plant with a fall vegetable is better sown with a cover crop than left bare over winter — bare soil erodes, compacts and loses nutrients to leaching, while a stand of winter rye, crimson clover, field peas or hairy vetch holds the soil, suppresses weeds, and adds organic matter when turned under in spring. Legume covers like clover and vetch also fix nitrogen, effectively fertilizing the next crop for free. In cold zones, choose a winter-killed cover such as oats or field peas that dies back on its own and leaves an easy-to-plant residue; in milder zones, a hardy rye or vetch overwinters and is cut down before it seeds.

Close-up detail of the material being worked in a seeds & vegetable growing project, in soft early-morning light

Fall planting windows by zone

USDA zoneFall sowing windowNotes
3 to 4JulyShort window; fast, hardy crops
5 to 6July to AugustFull range of cool-season crops
7August to SeptemberLong fall; overwinter many crops
8September to OctoberFall is the main growing season
9 to 10October to NovemberCool season is prime for most crops

Extending the fall harvest with covers

Simple covers push the fall harvest weeks or months later. Floating row cover adds a few degrees of frost protection and keeps late pests off; low tunnels and cold frames carry hardy greens through winter in zones 5 and up. A thick straw mulch over root crops lets you harvest carrots, beets and parsnips from the ground long after the tops die back. Vent covers on mild, sunny days so trapped heat does not cook the crop, and remember that plants under cover still need light and occasional water. In the mildest zones, most cool-season crops grow unprotected all winter.

Fall planting tips

Related: fall garden vegetables, what to plant in winter, the vegetable planting calendar, and how we rank.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

What vegetables should I plant in fall?

Fall is for cool-season crops that mature in cooling weather and often sweeten after frost — kale, spinach, lettuce, radishes, carrots, beets, broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, turnips and Swiss chard. It is also the classic time to plant garlic and shallots for the following summer, and to sow cover crops. Fast crops like radishes, arugula and leaf lettuce can go in as late as early fall, while long-season brassicas must be started in mid to late summer to finish before hard frost sets in.

When is it too late to plant a fall garden?

It depends on your first frost date and the crop's speed. Count back from your average first fall frost, add about two weeks for slowing autumn growth, and that is the latest safe sowing date. Once frost is under about 40 days away, stick to fast crops — radishes at 25 to 30 days, arugula and leaf lettuce at 30 to 45, spinach at 40 to 50. Frost-hardy crops can be pushed later still because they survive past frost, and covers can extend the window further into the cold.

What vegetables get sweeter after frost?

Many cool-season crops convert stored starch into sugar as a natural antifreeze when temperatures drop, so they genuinely taste sweeter after frost. Carrots, kale, spinach, Brussels sprouts, parsnips, collards and leeks are the standouts, and this frost-sweetening is one of the main reasons gardeners value the fall harvest. Carrots and parsnips left in the ground under a thick mulch become candy-sweet after several frosts and can be dug through much of winter in many zones.

Can I plant garlic in the fall?

Yes — fall is the traditional and best time to plant garlic across most of the country. Set cloves in the ground from September to November, after the first light frosts but before the soil freezes, so they root without sending up much top growth before winter. Garlic needs this cold period to form good bulbs and is harvested the following summer. Shallots and some overwintering onions follow the same timing. Mulch the bed after planting to protect the developing roots through winter.

Do fall vegetables need less watering?

Eventually, but not at first. Late-summer sowings go into warm, dry soil and need consistent daily watering to germinate and establish — this is the hardest part of fall gardening. Once cooler weather and shorter days arrive, evaporation drops sharply and plants need far less frequent watering than in summer. Mulching helps hold moisture through the warm establishment phase. Overwintering crops need little water in the cold months but should not go into winter completely dry.