Garden 
Affiliate Disclosure
Some links on this page are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — at no extra cost to you. We do not buy, test, or physically handle the products we cover; our rankings come from aggregated owner reviews, ratings and expert consensus. Commissions never change our verdicts. How we rank · full disclosure.
The short answer: care for a philodendron by giving it bright, indirect light, watering when the top inch of soil dries out (about weekly in the growing season, less in winter), and keeping it warm — 65 to 80 degrees F — with average to high humidity. Philodendrons are among the most forgiving houseplants: they tolerate lower light than most, root easily from cuttings, and bounce back from the occasional missed watering. Feed lightly in spring and summer, use a well-draining mix in a pot with drainage, and keep them out of reach of pets, since they are toxic if chewed. Overwatering is the main thing to avoid.
With hundreds of species and cultivars, from trailing vines to large upright plants, philodendrons share the same core care. This guide reflects horticultural consensus and the patterns owners report, not first-hand growing on our part; see how we rank.
Vining vs upright philodendrons
Philodendrons fall into two broad growth habits, and knowing which you have helps you place and support it. Vining, or climbing, types trail or climb and include the popular heartleaf philodendron, Brasil, Micans, and the neon-toned Lemon Lime. They look great in hanging baskets or trained up a moss pole. Upright, or self-heading, types grow into large, bushy plants with big leaves and do not vine; these include the Xanadu, the split-leaf Selloum, and the tree philodendron.
| Type | Examples | Habit |
|---|---|---|
| Vining / climbing | Heartleaf, Brasil, Micans, Lemon Lime | Trails or climbs; great for baskets or poles |
| Upright / self-heading | Xanadu, Selloum, tree philodendron | Grows large and bushy; needs floor space |
Care is essentially the same for both, with the main difference being that vining types benefit from a support to climb, which produces larger leaves, while upright types simply need room to spread.
Light
Bright, indirect light brings out the best in a philodendron: full, fast growth and good leaf color. A spot near an east window, or set back a few feet from a south or west window, is ideal. That said, philodendrons tolerate medium and even low light better than most houseplants, which is why they thrive in offices and dim rooms — they will keep going, just more slowly.
Avoid direct sun, which scorches the foliage. And watch for the signs of too little light in vining types: leggy stems with small leaves spaced far apart, and slow, pale growth. If that happens, move the plant to a brighter spot. In a room without enough natural light, a grow light run 10 to 12 hours a day keeps a philodendron full — see best grow lights for indoor plants, and how much light do houseplants need for reading your home's light.
Watering your philodendron
Water a philodendron when the top inch of soil feels dry. In practice that is roughly weekly in spring and summer and every 10 to 14 days in fall and winter, but the finger test beats any schedule because timing shifts with light, temperature, and season. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then empty the saucer so the roots never sit in water.
Philodendrons like their soil to dry partway between waterings, not to go completely bone dry and not to stay constantly soggy. Overwatering is the most common cause of trouble, producing yellow leaves and, if it continues, root rot. Underwatering shows up as drooping and crispy brown edges and is easily fixed with a good soak. For the general approach, see how often to water houseplants, and if you have overdone it, how do you save an overwatered plant.
Soil, humidity, and temperature
Use a well-draining, airy potting mix. A standard houseplant mix with added perlite works well, and the chunkier aroid-style blends favored for these plants improve drainage further. Always pot into a container with drainage holes. Our ranked mixes are in best potting mix for houseplants.
As tropical plants, philodendrons appreciate humidity above 50 percent, which produces lusher growth, though they tolerate average household humidity better than fussier tropicals. A pebble tray, a humidifier, or grouping plants helps in dry, heated rooms — see humidifier vs pebble tray. Keep temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees F, and protect the plant from cold drafts and from temperatures below 55 degrees F, which it will not tolerate.
Feeding, pruning, and supporting a philodendron
Feed a philodendron with a balanced houseplant fertilizer at half strength every 4 to 6 weeks during spring and summer, and stop in fall and winter when growth slows. Sparse, slow growth despite good light can indicate it is due for feeding. Our ranked options are in best indoor plant fertilizer.
Prune vining types to keep them full: cut just above a node, and the plant branches there, exactly as with pothos. The cuttings root easily in water or soil, so pruning doubles as propagation using the same node method covered in how to propagate pothos. Giving a climbing philodendron a moss pole to ascend encourages noticeably larger, more mature leaves, since these plants naturally climb toward the canopy in the wild.
Philodendron toxicity and pet safety
Philodendrons are toxic to cats, dogs, and people if ingested. They contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that cause irritation of the mouth and throat, drooling, and vomiting when chewed, per the ASPCA. This is not usually life-threatening but is genuinely unpleasant, so keep philodendrons out of reach of pets and small children.
A vining philodendron is easy to place safely — trained up high, mounted on a wall, or in a hanging basket well above curious mouths. If a pet does chew one and shows signs of distress, contact your veterinarian. For safer alternatives and a full list of what to watch for, see which common houseplants are toxic to cats.
Troubleshooting
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Yellowing lower leaves, soft stem | Overwatering | Let soil dry, improve drainage, check roots |
| Brown crispy leaf edges | Underwatering or low humidity | Water more consistently; raise humidity |
| Leggy stems, small spaced leaves | Too little light | Move to brighter indirect light; add a pole to climb |
| Pale or scorched patches | Direct sun | Move out of direct light |
| Slow, sparse growth | Needs feeding or more light | Feed lightly in the growing season; increase light |
| Small flies around the pot | Chronically wet soil | Let the top dry; see the fungus gnat guide |
Philodendrons are hard to kill and easy to multiply, which makes them ideal for beginners and collectors alike. For the plant they are most often confused with, see how often should you water a monstera, and for more low-effort options, low light houseplants. Everything else is at the houseplants and indoor greenery hub.