What angle do I sharpen tools at?

It depends on the tool. Wood chisels and plane irons take a 25 to 30 degree bevel, kitchen and pocket knives 15 to 20 degrees per side, axes and hatchets 25 to 30 degrees, pruners and loppers a shallow 10 to 15 degrees on the beveled blade only, and lawn mower blades a factory 30 degrees or so. Matching the existing bevel is almost always the right move; only change the angle if the tool is chronically chipping (steepen it) or too blunt to cut cleanly (shallow it).

Can I sharpen tools with sandpaper?

Yes, and it is one of the best ways to start. The scary sharp method glues or holds wet-dry sandpaper to a flat surface like glass or granite, then works up through grits, for example 220, 400, 800 and 1000. It costs a fraction of a stone set and produces excellent edges on chisels and plane irons. The one limitation is that sandpaper wears out and needs regular replacing, so for high-volume sharpening a stone is cheaper over time.

How often should I sharpen my tools?

Sharpen when a tool stops cutting cleanly, not on a fixed calendar. Chisels and plane irons get a quick hone whenever they start crushing rather than slicing wood fibers, often several times in one project. Pruners benefit from a touch-up every few hours of active pruning. Mower blades should be sharpened at least once or twice per mowing season, and immediately after hitting a rock. A quick hone is far faster than a full regrind, so touch up early and often.

Do I need to oil a sharpening stone?

Only if it is an oilstone. Water stones use water, diamond plates use water or nothing, and oilstones use honing oil. Never use oil on a water stone or water on an oilstone, because the wrong lubricant clogs the surface. The lubricant floats away the metal particles, called swarf, so the stone keeps cutting. Whatever the type, wipe the surface clean when swarf builds up and keep the stone flat, since a dished stone rounds your bevel.

How do I know when a tool is sharp enough?

Test it, do not guess. A sharp chisel or plane iron will slice cleanly through the end grain of softwood or shave a paper-thin curl; a sharp knife cuts printer paper without tearing; sharp pruners slice a pencil-thick green stem in one clean pass instead of crushing it. You can also feel for a burr, a tiny wire edge that forms on the back as you grind, then remove it. If the edge reflects light as a bright line, it is still dull, since a truly sharp edge is too thin to reflect.

How to Sharpen Tools: Chisels, Blades, Shears and Bits

Written & researched by Derek Holt Home & Appliances Editor

Updated May 2026

Golden-hour view of a person drilling into a timber board on a workbench, sawdust in the air

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To sharpen most tools, match the existing bevel angle, work from a coarse abrasive to a fine one, and finish by removing the burr that forms on the back. Chisels and plane irons want a 25 to 30 degree bevel, knives 15 to 20 degrees per side, pruners a shallow 10 to 15 degrees, and mower blades roughly 30 degrees. The abrasive can be a sharpening stone, a diamond plate, or wet-dry sandpaper on glass. The principle is identical across every edged tool; only the angle and the setup change.

We do not physically sharpen tools on a test bench. This guide distills manufacturer guidance, extension-service advice, and the consensus of experienced woodworkers and gardeners, in line with how we rank. Follow the steps for your specific tool below.

Sharpening angles by tool

Getting the angle right is 80 percent of the job. Too steep and the edge is strong but dull; too shallow and it is keen but chips. Use this as your reference, and when in doubt copy the bevel the tool already has.

Tool	Bevel angle	Notes
Wood chisel	25 to 30 degrees	25 for paring, 30 for mortising and abuse
Plane iron	25 to 30 degrees	Add a 1 to 2 degree micro-bevel to speed honing
Kitchen / pocket knife	15 to 20 degrees per side	Both sides, alternating
Axe / hatchet	25 to 30 degrees	Convex edge, work in a slight curve
Pruners / loppers	10 to 15 degrees	Beveled side only, leave the flat side flat
Lawn mower blade	30 degrees (factory)	Not razor sharp, a butter-knife edge cuts grass best
Scissors / shears	Match factory bevel	Outside edge only

Wide view of a person drilling into a timber board on a workbench, sawdust in the air, in warm evening lamplight

Choosing your abrasive

You do not need every option. Pick one system and learn it well. Each removes metal and refines the edge; they differ in speed, cost, and mess.

Wet-dry sandpaper on glass (the scary sharp method): cheapest entry point and superb for chisels and plane irons. Grits of 220, 400, 800 and 1000 cover most work. The paper wears and needs replacing.
Water stones: fast-cutting and capable of a mirror edge; a 1000/6000 combination stone suits most home shops. They must be kept flat and dished stones re-flattened.
Diamond plates: nearly indestructible, cut fast, stay flat forever, and work on the hardest steels. Higher upfront cost but the lowest fuss.
Oilstones: traditional and durable, slower than water stones, and they need honing oil rather than water.
Bench grinder with a jig: for reshaping badly damaged edges or thinning a thick bevel quickly. Go slow and cool the steel in water often, since overheating turns the edge blue and ruins its hardness.

For a related edge, drill bits have their own method covered in how to sharpen drill bits.

Close-up detail of the material being worked in a power tools & workshop project, in warm late-afternoon light

Sharpening chisels and plane irons step by step

This is the core skill; master it and everything else follows. A honing guide that holds the tool at a fixed angle makes early attempts far more successful than freehand.

Flatten the back first. Lay the back flat on your finest abrasive and rub until the last inch is uniformly polished. Do this once for the life of the tool; the back is half of every edge.
Set the bevel angle at 25 to 30 degrees, using a honing guide if you have one.
Grind on the coarse grit until a small burr forms along the entire back edge, which you can feel by dragging a thumbnail off the back.
Progress up the grits to 800 and 1000, refining the scratches finer at each step.
Remove the burr by laying the back flat on the finest grit and taking a few light strokes, then alternate one light pass on each side.
Strop on leather with polishing compound for a final polish if you want a paring-sharp edge.
Test by shaving a curl of softwood end grain; it should slice, not crush.

Sharpening pruners, loppers and garden shears

Garden cutting tools are simpler and forgiving, and a sharp pruner protects your plants by making clean cuts that heal fast rather than crushed wounds that invite disease. Use a small carbide sharpener or a fine diamond file.

Clean the blade first; dried sap and rust dull the edge as much as wear. A pad of steel wool and some solvent works.
Sharpen only the beveled blade on bypass pruners, following its existing angle of about 10 to 15 degrees, working from the base to the tip in one direction.
Leave the flat inner face flat; just remove any burr with one light pass so the blades still meet cleanly.
Wipe on a drop of oil to prevent rust and keep the pivot moving.

Anvil pruners are sharpened on both faces since the blade cuts against a flat anvil, not past a second blade.

Three-quarter view of a person drilling into a timber board on a workbench, sawdust in the air, in warm late-afternoon light

Sharpening a lawn mower blade

A dull mower blade tears grass instead of slicing it, leaving frayed brown tips that stress the lawn and invite disease. Sharpen at least once or twice a season. Aim for a butter-knife edge, not a razor, because a too-thin edge chips on the first stone.

Disconnect the spark plug (or remove the battery on an electric mower) before touching the blade. This is not optional.
Remove the blade, marking the bottom face so you reinstall it the right way up.
Clamp it and file or grind along the existing 30-degree bevel, keeping equal strokes on each end.
Check balance by hanging the blade on a nail through the center hole; if one end drops, grind a little more off that side. An unbalanced blade vibrates and wears the spindle bearing.
Reinstall to the correct torque and reconnect the plug.

Care that keeps edges sharp longer

The best sharpening is the sharpening you do not have to do. A few habits stretch the time between grinds and make each one faster.

Wipe tools dry and add a film of oil after use; rust pits are the enemy of any edge.
Store edges protected, not rattling loose in a drawer where they knock together and chip.
Touch up early. A 30-second hone on a slightly dull edge beats a full regrind on a badly dull one.
Keep stones flat and clean; a dished stone rounds your bevel and undoes your careful angle.
Avoid cutting into dirt, sand or the ground, which is what destroys mower blades and pruners fastest.

A clean, organized bench makes this routine painless; if yours needs work, see how to build a DIY workbench and how to build a pegboard tool wall. Browse more guides at the power tools and workshop hub, and see our approach in how we rank.

How to Sharpen Tools the Right Way