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A slow or clogged bathtub drain is a DIY fix in almost every case — usually 15 minutes, under $10 in tools, no permit and no plumber. The cause is nearly always hair and soap scum caught on the stopper. Work in order: pull and clean the stopper, hook the hair out with a cheap barbed tool, then plunge and finally snake through the overflow only if those fail. Skip the chemical cleaners. The one time to stop and call a pro is when several fixtures back up at once — that is a main-line problem, not a tub problem.
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Tools and materials
- A barbed plastic hair tool (a Zip-It style wand) — the single most useful and satisfying tool for this job.
- A cup plunger — see our plunger buying guide for the cup shape that seals a flat tub drain.
- A drum drain snake for deeper clogs — ranked in best drain snake.
- A screwdriver (for the stopper and overflow plate), rubber gloves, a flashlight and a rag.

Step 1: Remove and clean the stopper
Different stoppers come out differently. A lift-and-turn or push-pull stopper usually unscrews — hold the base and twist the cap counterclockwise, or lift it to the open position and back out a small setscrew. A toe-touch pops up and unscrews. A trip-lever (the plate at the tub head) is connected to a rocker linkage you pull straight up and out through the overflow. Once the stopper is out, you will usually see the culprit wrapped right around it. Clean it off.
Step 2: Pull the hair clog with a barbed tool
Feed the barbed wand down into the drain opening 12 to 18 inches, twist it a half turn to catch the mat, and pull it out slowly. Expect something unpleasant — that is success. Repeat two or three times until the tool comes back clean. Run hot water; if it drains freely now, you are done. This clears the great majority of tub clogs.

Step 3: Plunge if it is still slow
If water still pools, plunge. First block the overflow — stuff a wet rag into the overflow opening or hold the cover plate over it — or the plunger just pushes air out the top and nothing happens at the clog. Leave an inch or two of standing water to seal the plunger cup, press down to expel air, then pump firmly a dozen times keeping the seal. The suction on the up-stroke often breaks a clog the push could not.
Step 4: Snake through the overflow
For a clog deeper than the stopper, go through the overflow. Unscrew the two-screw overflow cover plate at the head of the tub and remove it and the linkage. Feed the drain snake cable in — the overflow drops straight into the trap, so the cable reaches it without fighting the drain crossbars. Crank the drum handle clockwise, push gently, and when you feel the clog either break through it or hook it and withdraw the cable slowly. Run water to confirm, then reinstall the overflow plate and stopper.

Common mistakes
- Reaching for chemicals first. They rarely dissolve a hair mat and they make every later step more hazardous.
- Plunging without blocking the overflow. You lose all your force out the top of the tub.
- Forcing a snake down the drain opening past the crossbars — go through the overflow instead, it is far easier and gentler on the finish.
- Ignoring the stopper for years. A two-minute cleaning every couple of months prevents almost every clog.
When to call a plumber
The tub is a DIY fix; a main line is not. Call a plumber if more than one fixture drains slowly or backs up together, if flushing the toilet makes water rise in the tub, or if there is a persistent sewer odor — those point to the shared branch or main line, beyond the reach of a homeowner snake and with a real risk of raw-sewage backup. A single stubborn tub clog you cannot clear after snaking the trap is also worth a call, but it is rarely the main line if only the tub is affected. No permit is involved in clearing a drain.
Related: how to snake a clogged drain, how to clear a clogged kitchen sink, and how to replace a P-trap when the clog is in the trap itself.