How to Grow Succulents

Written & researched by Elena Marsh Gardening & Landscaping Editor

Updated July 2026

The short answer: grow healthy succulents by giving them at least 6 hours of bright light a day (a south window or a grow light), watering with the soak-and-dry method — a thorough drink only once the soil is completely dry — and planting in gritty, fast-draining mix in a pot with drainage holes. Keep them at normal room temperatures, feed lightly in spring and summer, and rotate them for even growth. The two things that kill indoor succulents are too little light, which makes them stretch and pale, and too much water, which rots them. Fix those and succulents are among the most rewarding, low-effort plants you can grow.

This guide reflects horticultural consensus and the patterns owners report most often, not first-hand growing on our part; see how we rank. If you want to multiply the ones you have, pair it with how to propagate succulents.

Succulent Light: The Number-One Factor

More succulents fail from too little light than from anything else, because indoor light is dramatically dimmer than the open, sunny habitats these plants evolved in. Give them at least 6 hours of bright light a day, and for most types, direct sun is welcome.

A south-facing window is the gold standard indoors. East and west windows work but deliver less intensity, and a north window alone is rarely enough. Signs your succulent wants more light are unmistakable: the stem stretches out, the leaves spread apart and point down, the plant leans hard toward the glass, and the color fades from vivid to plain green. This stretching, called etiolation, is permanent, so act before it happens.

If you do not have a bright enough window, a grow light is a reliable fix — run it 12 to 14 hours a day a few inches above the plants. Our ranked picks are in best grow lights for indoor plants. One caution: a succulent moved suddenly from indoors into full outdoor sun can sunburn, so increase light gradually over a week or two.

The Soak-and-Dry Method for Watering Succulents

Succulents store water in their leaves and stems specifically so they can survive drought, which means the way to kill one is to keep it wet. Forget any fixed schedule and use the soak-and-dry cycle instead.

1. Wait until the soil is completely dry. Check with your finger or a moisture meter. The whole pot, not just the surface, should be dry.
2. Soak thoroughly. Water until it runs freely from the drainage holes, wetting the entire root zone.
3. Drain fully. Empty any saucer so the pot never sits in water.
4. Do not water again until it is dry. Then repeat.

When in doubt, wait. A thirsty succulent is trivially easy to revive; a rotted one usually is not.

Succulent Soil and Pots That Prevent Rot

The right medium does half the work of keeping succulents alive. They need a gritty, fast-draining mix that dries quickly and lets air reach the roots. Buy a commercial cactus and succulent mix, or make your own by cutting regular potting soil with an equal part of coarse perlite, pumice, or coarse sand. Standard potting soil on its own holds far too much moisture. For the full breakdown, see what potting mix for succulents.

The pot matters just as much. Always use a container with drainage holes — the decorative pots sold without them trap water at the bottom and rot the roots. Terra cotta is ideal because its porous walls wick moisture out of the soil, giving you extra margin against overwatering. Size the pot only slightly larger than the plant, since a big pot holds a large volume of slow-drying soil.

Temperature and airflow

Most common succulents are comfortable in ordinary household temperatures, roughly 60 to 80 degrees F. They handle the dry indoor air that troubles tropical houseplants without complaint, so no humidity effort is needed. Many actually color up best with a cool, dry rest in winter, and a nighttime drop in temperature can deepen reds and purples.

Keep them above about 50 degrees F, as most are not frost-hardy — the notable exception being Sempervivum, or hen-and-chicks, which is cold-hardy and often grown outdoors. Good airflow around the plants helps the soil dry and discourages pests and fungal problems, so avoid cramming them into a stagnant, closed space.

Feeding and seasonal growth

Succulents are light feeders, adapted to poor soils, so they need little fertilizer. During the spring and summer growing season, feed once a month with a fertilizer diluted to half or quarter strength, or use a dedicated succulent fertilizer at the label rate. Skip feeding entirely in fall and winter, when most succulents are dormant. Our ranked general options are in best indoor plant fertilizer.

Overfeeding causes weak, elongated growth and can burn the roots, so err on the side of less. Rotate the pot a quarter turn every week or two as well, so the plant gets even light and grows symmetrically rather than leaning permanently toward the window.

Common problems and fixes

Get light and water right and succulents largely take care of themselves. For drought-tolerant relatives, see how to care for air plants, and to expand your collection for free, how to propagate succulents turns one plant into many. Everything else is at the houseplants and indoor greenery hub.