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How to Paint Brick

Home/Resources/Paint & Walls/Painting Brick
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Written & researched by Priya Anand DIY & Tools Editor
Updated August 2026
Wide view of a person rolling fresh paint onto an interior wall, in warm late-afternoon light

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Painting brick is achievable DIY, but it is a commitment — once painted, brick is very hard to return to bare — and it demands the right masonry products. An interior accent wall is a weekend; exterior brick is more involved. Materials cost more than a normal wall because brick drinks paint, and you need a masonry primer and breathable masonry paint, not ordinary wall paint. No permit for painting, but the wall must be sound, clean, and fully dry first, and new masonry must cure a month or more. Success comes down to the right paint, a masonry primer, and working paint into the mortar joints.

How to Paint Interior Brick — No Cleaning Needed

Step-by-step: painting brick

  1. Confirm the brick is ready. It must be sound, clean, and fully dry. New brick or mortar has to cure a month or more first. Fix any crumbling mortar or moisture problems before painting.
  2. Clean thoroughly. Remove dust, dirt, efflorescence (the white powdery mineral deposit), and any loose material with a stiff brush and appropriate cleaner. Let it dry completely.
  3. Repair the mortar. Repoint any damaged mortar joints and let them cure. Paint will not save failing masonry — fix it first.
  4. Prime with masonry primer. Apply an alkali-resistant masonry or bonding primer, brushing it into the mortar joints and rolling or spraying the faces. Let it dry fully. The porous brick will drink it.
  5. Cut in the joints. With a masonry brush, work the color paint into the recessed mortar lines and rough spots that a roller skips.
  6. Coat the field. Roll with a thick-nap (3/4-inch or more) roller or spray and back-roll to push paint into the texture. Expect heavy paint use.
  7. Second coat. Let the first coat dry the recoat time, then apply a second full coat for even, durable coverage.
Wide environmental view of a person rolling fresh paint onto an interior wall, in warm late-afternoon light

Tools and materials

You need a stiff brush and masonry cleaner, an alkali-resistant masonry primer, a breathable masonry paint, a masonry brush, a thick-nap roller or a sprayer, and painter's tape. Because brick has enormous surface area and deep texture, a paint sprayer paired with back-rolling is the fastest way to get full, even coverage — this is a job where a sprayer really earns its keep. A heavy-nap roller reaches into the brick and mortar texture, and the right masonry-suitable paint is what keeps the finish from peeling. Clean painter's tape masks adjacent trim and surfaces.

Golden-hour view of a person rolling fresh paint onto an interior wall

Mistakes that make brick paint fail

Wide view of a person rolling fresh paint onto an interior wall, in soft early-morning light

When to call a pro

Bring in a mason if the brick has significant crumbling mortar, spalling (flaking) faces, or a moisture problem — those need repair, not paint, and sealing over them causes worse damage. For historic brick, consult a preservation specialist before painting, since it is essentially irreversible and may harm the masonry's value and breathability. Pre-1978 buildings may have lead paint on already-painted brick; do not dry-sand or blast it, and follow lead-safe practices.

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More from this hub: Paint & Walls · Priming a wall · Painting an accent wall · Repairing peeling paint · Best paint sprayer · How we rank

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

What kind of paint do you use on brick?

A breathable masonry or elastomeric paint over a masonry primer, not ordinary wall paint. Brick is porous and holds moisture, and a paint that seals it too tightly traps that moisture and peels. Masonry paints are formulated to let the wall breathe while resisting the alkalinity of brick and mortar. For interior brick a quality latex over a masonry/bonding primer is usually fine; for exterior brick, a breathable masonry or elastomeric coating handles weather and moisture. Using the right masonry-appropriate paint and primer is the single biggest factor in whether painted brick lasts years or peels within a season.

Do you have to prime brick before painting?

Yes — prime bare brick with a masonry or alkali-resistant primer. Brick and mortar are highly alkaline and very porous, and primer both neutralizes that alkalinity (which can otherwise attack the paint) and seals the surface so your finish coats do not soak in unevenly and so they bond. A bonding masonry primer is especially important on dense or previously sealed brick. Skipping primer on brick is a common reason the paint peels or looks blotchy. Let the primer dry fully before the color coats, and expect the porous surface to drink the first coat.

Should you paint brick, and is it reversible?

Painting brick is essentially permanent — once painted, brick is very difficult to return to bare, so decide with that in mind. Paint can be a great update for damaged, mismatched, or dated brick and for interior accent walls, but it commits you to repainting and maintenance over time, and trapped moisture can damage exterior brick if done wrong. If the brick is historic or in good original condition, many preservationists advise against painting it. For exterior brick especially, make sure the wall is sound and dry first, because sealing moisture into failing brick accelerates damage.

How do you get paint into the mortar joints on brick?

Use a brush to work paint into the recessed mortar lines first, then roll or spray the brick faces — or use a thick-nap roller (3/4-inch or more) or a sprayer that pushes paint into the texture. The deep, rough mortar joints are where a roller alone skips and leaves bare lines, so most people cut in the joints and rough spots with a masonry brush, then cover the field. A sprayer followed by back-rolling reaches into the texture fastest on a big wall. Expect brick to use much more paint than a flat wall because of all that surface area and porosity.

Does exterior brick need to cure before you paint new brick or mortar?

Yes — new brick and fresh mortar must cure and dry thoroughly before painting, often a month or more, because the alkalinity and moisture of green masonry will ruin a paint job. Freshly laid brick releases moisture and is chemically active as it cures; painting it too soon traps that moisture and the high alkalinity attacks the coating, causing peeling and discoloration. Wait for the recommended cure (commonly around 28 days or more for new mortar, per the paint and masonry guidance), make sure the wall is fully dry, then clean, prime with an alkali-resistant masonry primer, and paint.