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Yes, an impact driver drills holes in wood using impact-rated 1/4 inch hex-shank bits, but its useful range is narrow. Hex twist bits run to about 1/2 inch, hex spade bits to about 1-1/2 inches, and self-feed auger bits work well for running cable through studs. It cannot accept round-shank bits, hole saw arbors or masonry bits, and it makes ragged, out-of-round holes in metal and plastic because there is no controlled low speed and no clutch. For pilot holes and rough carpentry it is genuinely handy; for anything clean or large, use a drill.
What bits actually fit an impact driver?
Only 1/4 inch hex shanks, and only impact-rated ones if you want them to survive. The collet is a spring-collar quick-change holder, not a chuck, so it grips the hex flats and the retaining groove — a round shank simply falls out. Impact rating matters because the tool delivers thousands of shock blows per minute, and bits hardened for wear rather than shock snap at the shank.
| Bit type | Works? | Practical limit |
|---|---|---|
| Hex-shank twist bit | Yes, in wood | Up to ~1/2 in |
| Hex-shank spade bit | Yes | Up to ~1-1/2 in |
| Self-feed auger (hex) | Yes, a strong use case | ~2-1/8 in with high torque |
| Step bit (hex) | Marginal | Thin sheet only, ragged edge |
| Round-shank twist bit | No | Will not fit the collet |
| Hole saw | No | Chatters, grabs, no clutch to release |
| Masonry / SDS | No | Needs axial hammering, not rotational |
How well does it drill wood?
Well enough that carpenters do it routinely. In framing lumber, plywood and decking the extra torque means a spade bit or self-feed auger does not stall the way a compact drill can, and electricians in particular use impact drivers with self-feed bits to bore stud bays for cable. The holes are slightly oversized and a little ragged at entry, which is irrelevant inside a wall. Two habits improve the result: start the hole at low trigger pressure so the point can bite before the hammering begins, and back off as the bit exits to reduce blowout on the far face.
Why is it poor at metal and plastic?
Because clean cutting needs steady rotation at a controlled speed, and the impact mechanism delivers neither. Drilling steel properly means a slow, constant rpm so the cutting edge shears a continuous chip, with cutting oil to carry heat away. An impact driver pulses, which interrupts the chip, work-hardens the metal directly under the bit tip and leaves an out-of-round hole with a heavy burr. Plastic is worse: the shock cracks brittle materials such as acrylic and PVC around the hole. In both cases the fix is the other tool, not a better bit. The full division of labor is in impact driver vs drill driver.
Does a chuck adapter change the answer?
Only slightly. A 1/4 inch hex-shank keyless chuck lets you fit round-shank bits, and it is a reasonable thing to keep in a pouch for occasional holes. The trade-offs are consistent in owner reports: the adapter adds two to three inches of length, which makes the tool unwieldy and hard to keep perpendicular; it introduces runout so the bit wanders at the start; and the impacts progressively loosen the chuck jaws, so bits slip under load. It does not add a clutch or a controlled low speed, so it does nothing for metal. Treat it as a field convenience, not a conversion.
Where to go next
The wider question of substituting one tool for the other is covered in can you use an impact driver as a drill, and what the tool is designed for in what an impact driver is used for. To compare machines, see our ranked best impact drivers and best cordless drills, both scored on aggregated owner ratings and recurring complaints. Everything sits under the power tools and workshop hub.
We never buy or physically handle the tools we rank — our recommendations come from aggregated owner reviews and expert consensus, and the method is on how we rank.