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Vegetable Planting Calendar

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Three-quarter view of a person harvesting ripe tomatoes into a basket in a backyard vegetable garden, in soft early-morning light

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A vegetable planting calendar organizes the growing year by matching each crop to the right month for your climate, keyed to two dates: your average last spring frost and your average first fall frost. Cool-season crops are timed a few weeks before the last frost, warm-season crops a few weeks after it, and fall crops are counted backward from the first frost. This guide gives a full month-by-crop table, indoor-start timing, and soil temperatures in °F so you can build a calendar that fits your USDA zone rather than a generic one.

We do not test or physically handle the plants and products we cover; our guidance draws on horticultural extension research and the aggregated experience in thousands of owner reviews, as explained in how we rank.

The two dates every calendar hangs on

Every reliable planting calendar is built around two anchors, not fixed months. The first is your average last spring frost, the point after which killing frosts are unlikely. The second is your average first fall frost, when cold returns. The span between them is your frost-free growing season, which ranges from under 100 days in the far north to nearly year-round on the Gulf and West coasts.

Once you know these two dates, most planting instructions become simple arithmetic. "Sow 4 weeks before last frost" or "start indoors 8 weeks before last frost" translates to a real date for your yard. The master timing logic is covered in detail in when to plant vegetables; this calendar puts it into a month grid.

Three-quarter view of a person harvesting ripe tomatoes into a basket in a backyard vegetable garden, in bright midday sun

Month-by-crop planting calendar

The table below shows the typical planting action for common crops across a temperate-zone year (roughly zones 5 to 7, last frost mid-April, first frost mid-October). Shift every entry earlier in warm zones and later in cold ones.

CropStart indoorsSow/transplant outsideType
Onions & leeksJan to FebMar to AprCool
Peppers & eggplantFeb to MarMayWarm
TomatoesMar to early AprMay (after last frost)Warm
Broccoli & cabbageFeb to MarApr; again Jul for fallCool
Peas—Mar to Apr (direct)Cool
Lettuce & spinachOptionalMar to May; Aug to SepCool
Carrots & beets—Apr to Jun; Jul to AugCool
Beans—May to Jul (direct)Warm
Cucumbers & squashApr (optional)May to JunWarm
Garlic—Oct to Nov (for next summer)Cool

Notice several crops appear twice: cool-season vegetables like lettuce, carrots and brassicas get a spring window and a fall window, with the summer heat in between too hot for good quality.

Soil temperature is the real trigger

Calendar months are shorthand for soil temperature, which is what seeds actually respond to. A cold, wet spring can push every date back two weeks regardless of the calendar. A cheap soil thermometer removes the guesswork.

Crop groupMinimum soil tempIdeal soil temp
Peas, spinach, lettuce40°F50 to 65°F
Carrots, beets, brassicas45°F55 to 75°F
Beans, corn, cucumbers60°F70 to 85°F
Tomatoes, peppers, melons60 to 65°F70 to 90°F

If soil is below a crop's minimum, seeds sit and often rot rather than germinate. This is why beans and squash sown "on schedule" into cold May soil fail while the same seed sown two weeks later races ahead.

Golden-hour view of a person harvesting ripe tomatoes into a basket in a backyard vegetable garden

Indoor seed-starting schedule

The left column of the master table depends entirely on counting back from last frost. Get this wrong and transplants are either leggy and overgrown or too small to set out.

Harden off every indoor-grown seedling over 7 to 10 days before it goes outside, gradually exposing it to sun and wind so it is not shocked.

How the calendar splits into seasons

The year breaks into distinct planting windows, each with its own crop list. Spring and fall are the busy cool-season bookends; summer is for heat-lovers and fall starts; winter is for planning and indoor starts in cold zones, or active growing in warm ones.

Overhead view of a person harvesting ripe tomatoes into a basket in a backyard vegetable garden, in warm late-afternoon light

Shifting the calendar for your zone

The master table assumes a mid-April last frost. Use the offsets below to move every date to your region.

USDA zoneApprox. last frostShift from master table
3 to 4Late May4 to 6 weeks later
5 to 6Mid-April to early MayBaseline to 2 weeks later
7Late March to mid-April2 weeks earlier
8Early to mid-March4 to 6 weeks earlier
9 to 10Feb or frost-free8+ weeks earlier; winter is prime

In zones 9 and 10 the whole logic inverts: summer is the hard season and the cool months are peak growing time, so the calendar's "fall and winter" become the main vegetable season.

Building in succession and rotation

A calendar is not a single planting date but a rhythm. Fast crops like lettuce, radishes and bush beans should be re-sown every 2 to 3 weeks so the harvest is steady rather than all at once. When a spring crop finishes, a summer or fall crop follows it in the same bed. Keep basic crop rotation in mind: avoid following one plant family with the same family, especially brassicas and tomatoes, to limit soil disease.

Turning the calendar into a working plan

Related: the seasonal detail pages for cool season vegetables and warm season vegetables, plus the full Seeds & Vegetable Growing hub, and how we rank.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

How do I use a vegetable planting calendar for my area?

A generic calendar is only a starting point — anchor it to two dates for your location: your average last spring frost and your average first fall frost. Once you know those, most crops are timed as an offset. Cool-season crops go in 2 to 6 weeks before the last frost; warm-season crops go in 1 to 3 weeks after it, when the soil warms. Fall crops are counted backward from the first frost using days to maturity plus a two-week buffer. Adjust every date in a national calendar to match your own frost window.

What is the difference between direct sowing and transplanting on the calendar?

Many calendars list two dates for the same crop: when to start seeds indoors and when to set transplants or direct sow outside. Long-season, heat-loving crops like tomatoes, peppers and eggplant are usually started indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost, then transplanted after it. Fast, cold-tolerant crops like radishes, carrots, beans, peas and lettuce are direct sown outdoors because they resent transplanting. Read each calendar entry carefully so you start indoor crops early enough without starting outdoor crops too soon.

When should I start seeds indoors?

Count backward from your last spring frost. Peppers and eggplant want 8 to 10 weeks of indoor growth, tomatoes 6 to 8 weeks, and brassicas like broccoli and cabbage 4 to 6 weeks. Slow starters like onions and leeks may need 10 to 12 weeks. Starting too early is a common mistake — plants become leggy and root-bound waiting for the weather. If you cannot provide bright light, err toward the shorter end of each range so seedlings stay stocky and transplant well.

Can I grow vegetables year-round with a planting calendar?

In much of the country, yes, if you plan in overlapping seasons. Warm zones 8 to 10 grow cool-season crops right through winter and heat-lovers in summer, so the calendar rarely goes blank. Colder zones 3 to 6 rely on indoor seed-starting late in winter, a full outdoor season, and season-extension covers to stretch fall harvests. A good calendar shows these overlapping windows so you always have something coming in and something going out.

Why do planting dates vary so much between sources?

Because they are built for different climates. A calendar written for the Upper Midwest sows tomatoes outdoors in late May; one for the Gulf Coast sows them in March. The dates themselves are less important than the relationship to frost — 'two weeks after last frost' means March in one place and June in another. Always confirm which region or zone a calendar was written for, then translate its offsets to your own last and first frost dates rather than copying the printed months.