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How Much Does It Cost to Run a Dehumidifier?

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Golden-hour view of a person adjusting a floor-standing air purifier in a quiet living room

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The short answer, as of 2026: a typical 50-pint dehumidifier drawing about 500 watts costs roughly 9 cents an hour at a US average residential rate of 17.5 cents per kWh (check your own state against the EIA’s state-by-state residential prices) — about $1.05 for a 12-hour day, $31 a month, and $126 across a four-month damp season. In California at 32 cents per kWh the same use costs $58 a month. A small 20-pint unit runs about half that, and a whole-house 70-pint unit about 40 percent more.

Most dehumidifiers cycle rather than run continuously once the room reaches setpoint, so real bills often land 30 to 50 percent below the flat-out figures. We do not physically handle the units we rank; our picks come from aggregated owner reviews and expert consensus, described in how we rank, with the ranked field in best dehumidifiers.

Cost by capacity and electricity rate

Use the all-in rate from your bill — total charge divided by kWh used — which usually runs 15 to 40 percent above the advertised supply rate. Figures assume 12 hours of compressor runtime per day.

Rate per kWh20-pint (280 W)35-pint (400 W)50-pint (500 W)70-pint (700 W)
11¢ — WA, ID, ND$11/mo$16/mo$20/mo$28/mo
14¢ — TX, TN, MO$14/mo$20/mo$25/mo$35/mo
17.5¢ — US average$18/mo$25/mo$31/mo$44/mo
25¢ — NY, NH, VT$25/mo$36/mo$45/mo$63/mo
32¢ — CA, MA, CT$32/mo$46/mo$58/mo$81/mo
44¢ — HI$44/mo$63/mo$79/mo$111/mo

The formula behind every cell is watts ÷ 1,000 × hours per day × 30 × rate per kWh. Wattage on the nameplate is the maximum draw; ENERGY STAR certified units use about 20 percent less energy than a similarly sized conventional model, which over a season is $10 to $25.

Wide view of a person adjusting a floor-standing air purifier in a quiet living room, in soft early-morning light

Runtime drives the bill more than wattage

Hours per day (50-pint, 500 W)kWh per monthCost at 17.5¢
460$10.50
8120$21.00
12180$31.50
16240$42.00
24 (continuous)360$63.00

What sets the hours: how humid the space actually is, how leaky it is to outside air, the humidistat setting, ambient temperature, and whether there is a water source you have not fixed. A basement with a genuine seepage problem will run a dehumidifier around the clock and produce the surprise bills people describe, while a mildly damp basement in a sealed house may need only 4 to 6 hours a day.

Over-the-shoulder view of a person adjusting a floor-standing air purifier in a quiet living room, in soft overcast light

Seven ways to cut it

  1. Set the humidistat to 50 percent, not 35. The EPA advises keeping indoor humidity below 60 percent, ideally between 30 and 50 percent; 45 to 50 percent is comfortable and dry enough. Each 5 points lower adds meaningful runtime.
  2. Fix the water source first. Extend downspouts at least 4 to 6 ft from the foundation, correct grade so it slopes away, and seal obvious cracks. This routinely halves runtime.
  3. Close windows and doors to the space. Dehumidifying a basement with a window open is dehumidifying the outdoors.
  4. Size it correctly. An undersized unit running continuously costs more than a correctly sized one that cycles — see what size dehumidifier for a basement.
  5. Keep the coils and filter clean. A dust-blocked evaporator forces longer runtime for the same water removal. Detail in how to clean a dehumidifier.
  6. Use the continuous drain hose rather than the bucket. A unit that shuts off on a full bucket, then restarts from a higher humidity, uses more energy than one that never stops working — and you stop losing days to a full tank.
  7. Place it centrally with clearance. Restricted airflow around the intake and exhaust makes the unit work longer. See where to place a dehumidifier in a basement.
Close-up detail of the material being worked in a air quality project, in soft overcast light

Total cost of ownership

Item2026 cost
20 to 35-pint unit$150 – $250
50-pint unit$200 – $330
70-pint or whole-basement unit$280 – $500
Crawl space or whole-house ducted unit$1,200 – $2,500 plus installation
Electricity, four-month season, 50-pint$80 – $230
Filter cleaning or replacement$0 – $30/yr
Expected life5 – 10 years

Regional variation matters in both directions. Electricity rates range from about 11 cents per kWh in the Pacific Northwest to 44 in Hawaii, tripling the running cost for identical use. Season length varies just as much: a Gulf Coast or Ohio Valley basement may need a dehumidifier eight months a year, while an arid Mountain West home may never need one at all.

For the energy question in more depth see do dehumidifiers use a lot of electricity, and for the setpoint, what to set a dehumidifier to. If yours is running constantly, why my dehumidifier fills up so fast and why it is not collecting water cover the two ends of that problem, and desiccant vs compressor matters for cold spaces. Everything else is at the air quality hub.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

Does a dehumidifier cost more to run than an air conditioner?

No, considerably less. A 50-pint dehumidifier draws 400 to 600 watts against 700 to 900 for a window air conditioner and 3,000 or more for a central system. What makes dehumidifiers expensive on a monthly bill is duty cycle, not draw — they often run 10 to 16 hours a day in a damp basement all season, where air conditioning runs intermittently. Removing humidity also makes a house feel cooler, so a dehumidifier can slightly reduce air conditioning cost.

Is it cheaper to run a bigger dehumidifier?

Usually yes, which is counterintuitive. A larger unit removes the same amount of water in fewer running hours, and modern compressor dehumidifiers are more efficient per pint at larger capacities. Undersizing is the expensive mistake: a 20-pint unit fighting a genuinely damp basement runs continuously and never reaches setpoint, using more total energy than a 50-pint unit that cycles. Size to the space and the dampness level, not to the price tag.

Does the humidity setting change the cost?

Substantially. Every 5 percentage points lower on the humidistat means noticeably more runtime, because the unit has to work against a larger gradient with the outside air. Setting 50 percent instead of 35 percent commonly cuts running hours by a third or more while still preventing mold growth, which the EPA advises requires indoor humidity below 60 percent. There is little benefit below about 45 percent in most homes and a real cost.

Are desiccant dehumidifiers cheaper to run?

Not in warm conditions. A desiccant unit uses an electric heating element to regenerate its drying wheel and typically draws 300 to 700 watts continuously with no compressor cycling, so it uses more energy per pint removed above about 60°F. Where it wins is in cold spaces — an unheated garage, a crawl space or a basement below 60°F — because compressor units lose efficiency sharply as temperature falls and can ice up entirely.

Will a dehumidifier fix a wet basement?

It manages symptoms, not causes. A dehumidifier removes moisture already in the air, but if water is entering through foundation cracks, a failed grade, or downspouts discharging beside the wall, the unit runs continuously and the bill reflects it. Fixing the water source first — extending downspouts, correcting grade away from the foundation, sealing cracks — usually cuts dehumidifier runtime by half or more, and structural or persistent seepage problems warrant a licensed contractor rather than a bigger appliance.