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How to Replace a Faucet

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Golden-hour view of a person's hands tightening a fitting under a kitchen sink with a wrench

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The short answer: to replace a faucet, shut off the two supply valves under the sink, disconnect the supply lines and unscrew the old faucet's mounting nuts, lift it out, set the new faucet in place with its gasket or a bead of plumber's putty, tighten the mounting nuts, reconnect the supply lines with plumber's tape on the threads, and turn the water back on slowly to check for leaks. It is a one-to-two-hour DIY job needing no soldering. The single tool that makes it easy is a basin wrench, which reaches the mounting nuts in the tight space behind the sink.

Modern faucets connect with compression fittings and flexible supply lines, so there is no torch or solder involved. The real challenges are the cramped space under the sink and any corroded old hardware — both manageable with the right approach.

Step 1: Choose the right replacement

Before buying, match the new faucet to your sink so it actually fits.

For choosing well, see how to choose a kitchen faucet, plus our best kitchen faucet and best bathroom faucet picks. What hole size a kitchen faucet needs is covered in what size hole for a kitchen faucet.

Golden-hour view of a person's hands tightening a fitting under a kitchen sink with a wrench

Step 2: Gather your tools

ToolUsed for
Basin wrenchReaching mounting nuts in the tight space under the sink — the key tool
Adjustable wrenchSupply-line connections
Channel-lock pliersStubborn nuts and fittings
Plumber's tapeSealing threaded connections
Plumber's putty or siliconeSealing the faucet base (if no gasket included)
Bucket, towels, flashlightCatching drips and seeing under the sink

New flexible supply lines are inexpensive — buy fresh ones rather than reusing old, brittle lines. See what tools do you need to replace a faucet and our plumbing tools picks.

Step 3: Shut off the water and remove the old faucet

  1. Close both shutoff valves under the sink (clockwise), then open the faucet to release pressure and confirm the water is off. If the valves are seized, shut off the main water supply to the house.
  2. Place a bucket under the connections — water in the lines will drain out.
  3. Disconnect the supply lines from the faucet tailpieces with a wrench.
  4. Disconnect the sprayer hose and any pull-down weight if present.
  5. Unscrew the mounting nuts holding the faucet to the sink, using the basin wrench for the ones you cannot reach by hand. Corroded nuts may need penetrating oil and patience.
  6. Lift out the old faucet and scrape off any old putty or sealant, then clean the mounting surface.
Low-angle view of a person's hands tightening a fitting under a kitchen sink with a wrench, in warm late-afternoon light

Step 4: Install the new faucet

  1. Feed the new faucet's lines and tailpieces down through the mounting holes, seating its base gasket. If no gasket is supplied, lay a bead of plumber's putty or silicone under the base.
  2. From below, thread on the mounting nuts and hand-tighten, then snug with the basin wrench. Keep the faucet aligned straight as you tighten.
  3. Wrap plumber's tape clockwise around the threaded connections (a few wraps) before attaching lines.
  4. Connect the supply lines — hot to hot, cold to cold — hand-tight plus a gentle quarter to half turn with a wrench. Do not over-tighten.
  5. Attach the sprayer hose and weight if the faucet has a pull-down or side sprayer.

Step 5: Turn on and test

  1. Remove the aerator from the spout so debris can flush out.
  2. Open the shutoff valves slowly to avoid a pressure surge.
  3. Run hot and cold and let the water clear for a minute, then reinstall the aerator.
  4. Check every connection with a dry paper towel — it shows even a slow leak instantly. Tighten any joint that weeps.
Low-angle view of a person's hands tightening a fitting under a kitchen sink with a wrench, in warm evening lamplight

Troubleshooting leaks

Leak locationLikely fix
Supply-line connectionRe-seat and tighten gently; add plumber's tape
Base of the faucetRe-seal with gasket or plumber's putty
Sprayer hoseCheck the quick-connect or fitting seated fully
Under the handleCartridge or O-ring not seated; re-seat per instructions

Over-tightening cracks fittings and crushes washers, so if a joint leaks, re-seat it rather than forcing it tighter. If the old faucet was just dripping and you would rather repair than replace, see how to fix a leaky faucet.

Dealing with corroded, stuck hardware

The single thing most likely to turn a one-hour job into an afternoon is corroded old hardware. Old mounting nuts and supply connections seize with mineral buildup and rust, especially on a faucet that has been in place for a decade or more.

  1. Apply penetrating oil to the stuck nut and give it 10 to 15 minutes to work before trying again. Reapply if needed.
  2. Get better leverage with a basin wrench that has a longer handle, or a pair of channel-locks on nuts you can reach.
  3. Cut it as a last resort. A rusted mounting nut that will not budge can be cut off with a mini hacksaw or an oscillating tool — the old faucet is being discarded anyway, so damaging it does not matter.
  4. Watch the shutoff valves. If a shutoff valve itself is seized or weeps when you operate it, replace it while the water is off rather than fighting it — see the guide below.

Budget extra time if your plumbing is old. Patience with penetrating oil beats brute force, which can crack the sink or snap a pipe.

When to call a plumber

Do it yourself unless you hit one of these: shutoff valves that are seized and will not close (you will need the main shut off and possibly valve replacement — see how to replace a water shut-off valve), badly corroded connections that snap, or no existing shutoffs at all. For a bathroom-specific walkthrough, see how to replace a bathroom faucet; for the kitchen, how to replace a kitchen faucet.

How we evaluate faucets and tools — from aggregated owner reviews and expert consensus rather than first-hand testing — is set out in how we rank. For every fixture and plumbing task, the DIY plumbing hub has the complete library.

Straight Answers

Frequently Asked

Can I replace a faucet myself?

Yes, for most people this is a manageable one-to-two-hour DIY job needing only basic tools and no soldering, since modern faucets connect with compression fittings and flexible supply lines. The main challenges are working in the tight space under the sink and dealing with corroded old nuts. A basin wrench, which reaches the hard-to-access mounting nuts behind the sink, makes the job far easier. If the shutoff valves are seized or the connections are badly corroded, it is worth calling a plumber, but the faucet swap itself is straightforward.

What tools do I need to replace a faucet?

The core tools are an adjustable wrench, a basin wrench (the key tool for reaching mounting nuts in the tight space under the sink), channel-lock pliers, a bucket and towels, and plumber's tape. You may also want a putty knife or scraper to remove old sealant, plumber's putty or silicone for sealing the new faucet base if a gasket is not included, and a flashlight. New flexible supply lines are cheap and worth replacing at the same time rather than reusing old ones.

Do I need to turn off the water to replace a faucet?

Yes. Close the two shutoff valves under the sink, one for hot and one for cold, by turning them clockwise, then open the faucet to release pressure and confirm the water is off. If there are no under-sink shutoffs, or they are seized and will not close, you will need to shut off the main water supply to the house instead. After closing the valves, keep a bucket handy because water remaining in the lines will drain out when you disconnect them.

How do I know what size or type of replacement faucet to buy?

Count the mounting holes in your sink or countertop, most are one, three, or four holes, and measure the hole spacing (commonly 4 inches center-to-center for a centerset, or 8 inches or more for a widespread). Match the new faucet to that configuration, or use a deck plate to cover extra holes. Also check the faucet reaches over your sink and that the sprayer type suits your needs. Bringing a photo and measurements to the store, or checking the product specs online, avoids buying a faucet that will not fit.

Why is my new faucet leaking after installation?

The most common causes are under-tightened or over-tightened supply-line connections, a missing or misaligned gasket or seal at the base, or forgetting plumber's tape on threaded connections. Check each connection: hand-tighten plus a gentle quarter to half turn with a wrench is usually right, as over-tightening can crack fittings or crush washers. If the leak is at the base of the faucet, the seal or putty is the issue. Turn the water back on slowly and inspect every joint with a dry paper towel to find the exact leak point.